In your Jeep Creep questions, please list your first and last names, your hometown, and your state/province/country, so that we can publish that information here. If you don’t provide this information, we may not be able to publish your question and answer. Don’t forget to be as complete as possible with the description of your Jeep and its problems, too. No Jeep recalls this month. See all of the posted recalls at www.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm.—Jim Brightly

Reversing Suspension

I have a 1985 CJ7. I have been talking to a company that does lift kits; they have recommended I do a reverse suspension on the front. I know short wheelbase has some play in it but my CJ scares the crap out of me? Any help would be great.
Clay
Soledad, CA

If your CJ scares you with OEM suspension, perhaps you shouldn’t install a lift kit. When a Jeep is lifted it takes a much steadier, more experienced hand at the wheel. This goes double for a CJ with a reversed front suspension. With the shackles in the rear of the leaf springs, the front axle feels like it moves around more, and so it could intimidate you even more. Also, I’ve owned CJs with OEM front suspensions since ‘74 and have yet to see the need for installing the shackles in the rear.

Which Willys?

I recently found a “barn find” in my hometown—an old Willys. The guy that I bought it from told me that his parents bought it used in 1961. He told me that it is a 1959 Willys. I am trying to find out everything I can so that I can maybe restore this old gal. It ran about three to four years ago, and he told me that they used it for hunting on their farm. I do not really understand the serial numbers thing. The serial number is under the hood on the driver-side firewall. It is #57748 15641. Can you please explain what the numbers are so that I can start looking for information on it? It looks almost like a fire truck because it has a taller box that goes on top of the actual truck bed. There is a number on the motor that reads #807895 and the number on the frame is #420R. I think that I got it for a fair price. Everything looks to be original for the most part. And I would really like the help if you have time. I am looking forward to working on this thing!
Jonathan Please
Litchfield, MN

Jonathan, you’ll find a really great reference Web site right here on Off-Road.com. Just do a search for “early Willys information.”

Vibration

I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport model with a 4.0 and manual tranny. The Jeep has 96,000 miles on it. When shifting into third it tries to kick back out so I have to hold it in place for a couple seconds. When in third it gives me no problems at all—just getting it there is the problem and no other gears give me any trouble. Also I have a bad vibration when I get above 50 mph; it feels like something in the driveline area or rear end. I had the tires rotated and balanced and nothing changed. I just bought the Jeep from the original owner.
Michael Blevins

Your vibration is more than likely a bad U-joint in the driveshaft. Replace both of them to make sure. When you’re reinstalling the driveshaft make sure it is “clocked” correctly—both U-joints aligned with each other. As to your third gear, its syncro gear is damaged or its shifting fork is bent. Either way, you’ll have to pull the tranny and rebuild it.

Maine Mud Mania

I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler with a small body lift. I have had the Jeep for about two weeks now and have gone mudding with it once. After hitting the thick Maine mud, my alternator went out (I can understand because it was so packed with mud). Not wanting to do the work myself, I brought it to a local garage to have the alternator replaced. When I got it back the Jeep was overheating very quickly. Having worked on many a Jeep, I figured it was either the thermostat or the head gasket since those have been the most common problems I have seen. When I concluded that wasn’t the problem, I brought it back to the shop to have a scan tool used on it. When they did this they told me that my computer was fried and I needed a new one, costing me around $1,000. They told me the cause of this was too much mud in the computer itself, which I find hard to believe because Jeeps are built to do things like that. So now that it is running fine, my front calipers on both sides are seizing up for no reason. I have replaced them twice now and have put more into the Jeep than what I paid. Can you help me clear any of this up?
Juggalo Jeep
Brewer, ME

The Jeep’s computer is air cooled, so it could be fried by too much mud not allowing it to cool. Since you also fried your alternator, make sure you check your radiator carefully to make sure its air passages aren’t clogged with mud as well. I have two suggestions for your calipers; first, buy the next set somewhere different. Secondly, again since you’ve been playing in the mud, make sure the caliper rails are properly lubed. The caliper rails could be corroded, causing the calipers to stick and burn up. One more suggestion: Next time you make mud pies, make your first stop the nearest coin car wash and clean off all the mud before it starts causing more problems.

Tranny Type?

I have a 1991 Wrangler with a 4.0 H.O. engine and a three-speed automatic. There are no tags I can find on the transmission and was wondering if you might know what I have. As far as I know it is original equipment. Thanks for any information you might be able to give me.
Wesley Doriety
Timmonsville, SC

You have a Chrysler AT999. Why do you ask?

Gas Odor

I have a noticeable gasoline odor inside my Jeep Cherokee 2001 Sport. Could it possibly be coming from my evaporation canister or one of its hoses? Doesn’t happen every day but three or four times a week. Any input would be appreciated. Engine is a straight six-cylinder.
Timmee Gee
Grand Rapids, MI

It could very well be from the charcoal canister or a leaking return line. First thing to check, though, is a worn-out gasket on the gas cap. The injector O-rings at the injector rail can fail, and injector body leaks are very common. You need to find the cause before you’re forced to turn in an insurance claim or worse. You may need a good shop to do this.

No Low

I have a ‘79 CJ7 with a T18 transmission and a model 20 transfer case. I am having problems getting it to shift into four-wheel low. It works fine in four-wheel high. The fluid and the linkage check good. In four low only the rear tire is getting traction.
Sam
Albuquerque, NM

Your linkage may look good, but it isn’t working good. The linkage’s bushings are probably worn, not allowing a full lock up. Or it could be bent slightly. Have an expert check it out. If it’s not bent or the bushings are not worn, you’ll have to go inside the T-case. Also check the transmission mount. If it’s broken, it can cause shifter binding, which would not allow it locking in gear.

Desert Water Bags

The old burlap bags were not hung in front of the radiator so they were handy to refill it! They were hung there so that as the water leaked from them slowly—keeping the leaking burlap wet—the evaporation cooling would give the radiator cooler moist air (and keep it from overheating in the desert). Geez, get it right. And yeah, later there were imitations sold for “the look” with this as in most things.
David Rahfeldt
Medina, WA

Actually, David, with all due respect, you’re wrong. If the burlap water bags leaked enough so that water sprayed onto the radiator by the incoming wind, they’d be worthless as water bags because they wouldn’t hold the water long enough. The water seeped and soaked the burlap to try and cool the water inside the bag through evaporation. And they were hung from the front bumper guards because they were handy, in the air stream, and could be used for cool drinking water. They were only used for the radiators in emergencies. BTW: They were carry-overs from an earlier day when the bags were hung from saddle horns or hooks on the Conestoga wagons—no radiators anywhere.

I6 vs. I4

I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler and currently have a four-cylinder engine and manual transmission. I would like to change it to an in-line six fuel-injection engine (a Jeep engine). What changes need to be made to make the change? And most of all, where do I find a company that makes a complete six-cylinder engine that will hold up for many years?
Michael Lovato
Casper, WY

I would highly recommend a rebuilt GM 4.3L V6 over the Jeep I6. It’s lighter, has more horsepower and torque, is more economical, more readily available, and has way more aftermarket performance products available. Advance Adapters can provide you with everything you’d need other than the engine itself. Almost any large auto parts chain store (i.e., Pep Boys, Chief, Napa, etc.) can provide the engine.

A/C Help

You helped me sometime last year. My new question is where is the low pressure connection for adding Freon to a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
Warren Bush

You need to find a good repair manual on your model Jeep. If you don’t have a well-equipped auto parts store in your area, try JC Whitney, 4-Wheel Hardware or 4-Wheel Parts. You need the manual because working with Freon by an inexperienced person can be dangerous. Or you could simply take your Jeep to an A/C technician for refilling.

Acronym Overload

OK, I just recently bought a 2002 (I believe) Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5 MPI and a five-speed manual transmission. It’s got 104,000 miles on it and I got it for $1,500. A steal if you ask me. But I have a check engine light that I have started to look into. I can’t remember the P0 number but it was for intermittent loss of CMP or CKP sensor. Now I’ve been a mechanic for six years but I’m a little rusty on the gassers these days. If I understand MPI still, that ECM takes both CMP and CKP and uses this together to advance and retard timing and change or adjust injector pulse/dwell time. If one goes bad, it refers to a set “map” to continue to let the engine run, or is the Jeep not set up like that? Anyways, I unplugged the cam sensor while the engine is running rough and it stays the same as if it was never unplugged. So my thoughts are CMP sensor needs replacing. But also I installed two new 02 sensors in the Jeep and I’ve noticed that while the engine is cold it seems to run pretty good and no erratic idling. So I am also wondering if the 02 sensors are going back into open loop after the Jeep warms up? Be glad for some help; don’t want to throw parts at it!
Andrew Spurr
Lexington, KY

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CJ Steering

I have a 1981 CJ7 with 33x12.5 tires. It has a very large turning radius. Has power steering but won’t turn all the way to the stops. Steering also seems a little loose. I tried adjusting the gearbox but no change. It has an ‘87 CJ suspension with 5-inch lift.
William Beck
Defiance, OH

First of all, since you have a 5-inch lift, you’ll need an extended Pitman arm (that’s the arm that connects the steering linkage to the steering gearbox). The steering tie rods have to remain as level as possible to avoid the problems in steering you’re experiencing, plus bump and rebound steer. The longer Pitman arm should restore your turning radius, but also check the tie-rod ends and linkage for binding during the steering arc. Also, you might consider an improved, high-performance gearbox and a cross-frame gearbox brace.

A/C Help 2

I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport. When I hit a bump, the A/C will quit blowing. If I hit another bump, it starts back up again, etc. Is this a loose ground? Where do I check?
ScuttDog
Canton, MS

It’s definitely a loose ground wire or an intermittent open on the power side. If you’re lucky, it’ll be in the wiring quite close to the blower; otherwise it could be in your ignition bundle. You need a wiring diagram, which should be found in a good shop manual. Try your local auto parts stores, or the Web sites of JC Whitney, 4-Wheel Hardware or 4-Wheel Parts. The manual should also have a good and thorough troubleshooting section. One more thing, Carl, if all else fails to find the trouble, it could be a bad blower motor as well.

4.0L vs. 4.3L

I am buying ‘94 Jeep Wrangler S with the 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine. I’m a little worried that it won’t be enough power. Is there anyway to get more power out of it or can I swap for the 4.0?
Adam
San Diego, CA

I’m not now nor have I ever been a four-banger fan (and I’ll probably get nasty e-mails because of that statement). My last four-banger was in my first Jeep, which I bought in ‘64. Because of a severe lack of off-the-shelf conversion products at the time, it took me and my father-in-law (from whom I’d purchased the little red CJ2a) two years to install a Chevy 265 into it—and I haven’t had a four-cylinder since (my current red CJ has a Chevy 400 V8 in place of its original 4.0 liter). Anyway, of course you can replace the four with a 4.0L six-pack, but why stop there? I believe you’d be much happier with a GM 4.3L V6. It’s lighter, more economical, has higher performance, and a huge shelf of aftermarket products available for it. The Advance Adapters Web site will have all the information and parts you need.

Lurching Cherokee

I just purchased a ‘99 Cherokee Sport, 4.0L, standard transmission, with 120k miles on it. After taking it on a road trip, I noticed some trouble. After a couple hours of driving at 75 mph, the engine would sporadically lurch. It seemed to get progressively worse, but after stopping for an hour or so it was fine until another two hours of driving at high speed when it started again. The same thing happened the next day driving back home.

It never stalled, but seemed like it would if I had run it long enough. Also, it seemed to lurch more when I was giving it some gas (like when I started to go up a hill). The ‘check engine’ light came on during one of the lurches, then went off overnight, and it came back again the next day with another lurch. To further add to my confusion, I got off the interstate during a time when the engine was lurching, and as I coasted to a stop noticed my engine was running near 3k rpm in neutral. I tried lifting the gas pedal off the floor, but that wasn’t the issue. Within a minute or so it came back down.

Incidentally, my cruise control doesn’t hold a solid speed, and my blower will switch from the upper vents to the defrost vents depending on what speed I’m traveling. It seems like under load the vents switch to defrost, and then back again when I’ve let up on the gas. Also, with the blower off, when I give it a lot of gas to get up a hill there seems to be some air coming in the defrost vent, while at normal speeds there is none.

This thing sure has personality! If you can be of any help explaining what might be going on it would be greatly appreciated.
Mike Nation

The problems you’re having with the A/C-heater vents indicate a multitude of vacuum leaks under the dash. Of course, it could just be weak vacuum control valves, but if you add in the engine’s lurching, vacuum leaks appear to be the culprits. I suggest replacing the vacuum lines and the control valves first. If the venting continues to change during a change in vacuum, you may have to replace the dash controls as well. Once the vacuum leaks are corrected, if the lurching continues, do a tune-up because you could have ignition problems as well.

YJ vs. TJ

What is the difference between a TJ and a YJ? And which one is the better of the two? And why?
Ryan
Rusk, TX

Wow, that’s quite a question! Let me ask you one in return: Have you driven either one? You’d notice right away that the TJ’s ride is far superior to the YJ’s. But let’s start with the obvious, Jeep engineers listened to Jeep owners when they designed the TJ and returned to the more traditional round headlights. YJ suspension is almost identical to the older CJ7 in that it uses multi-leaf springs—albeit with wider front springs than the CJ (rear springs are virtually identical)—while the TJ has multi-link coil spring suspension (hence, its far superior ride). They both use almost identical engines, while the TJ has a six-speed manual and the YJ merely has a five-speed. The TJ also offers a Rubicon model, which the YJ does not, which in my humble opinion is the only TJ to buy. The Rubi has a much stronger drivetrain with Dana 44 axles at both ends and a beefier T-case. The YJ’s drivetrain is virtually identical to the older CJ model. If you’re looking, and you can afford it, forget the YJ and any TJ other than a Rubicon.