A Nation's Ever Known - JEEP CREEP Questions and Answers
JULY 4, 2003 -- Taking reigns on the American Dream, many of us, today, will enjoy the duty of flipping burgers at the barbecue. Here at my home, overlooking the rich orange groves of Fillmore, California, I will most certainly lead the charge into American History.
With my Samuel Adams holstered by a tether around my neck, I will flip. Medium rare on a few, burnt clear through on others, I will bear my healthy gut and festive smile, hoisting spirit in the most glorious occasions a nation's ever known - The Declaration of Independence!
Hi Jeep Creep. I am looking to buy a Cherokee for my next vehicle to build. I was wondering if you knew which Cherokees come with a Dana 44 rear end? I also heard that some Cherokees came with a high pinion front axle. If this is true, which years and models would have it? Also would an automatic tranny, tranny cooler, and a 4:1 t-case be able to handle 35" tires? Would I still need to change the ring and pinion gears? I would really appreciate your help on the Jeep info. I would also like to thank you for your support for our military. I am a U.S. Marine currently in the Persian Gulf and one of the lucky few to have internet access. I have been at sea for the last 88 days and it is columns and web pages like yours that keep me from going nuts out here. Oh, and I love your idea for a real Jeep Liberty. I have always wanted a .50 cal mounted on top of my CJ 5's roll cage.
LCpl John Joyce
United Sates Marine Corps
Thanks for the good word. Sorry it's been so long getting you a response. I've been getting heaps of email here. No matter, I've got to at least read it all, and I'm glad I got to yours. I consider it my duty, especially when it comes from those serving the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave.
Bummer to hear about your 88-day voyage. At least you aren't swallowing sand in the 100-plus heat. I've been keeping in touch with a few grunts on the ground. Life may be tough for some of them boys at times, but it's a hell of a lot worse to be on the receiving end of a Marine's wrath. As with any Red Blooded American, they are kicking ass with honor. Semper Fidelis.
If you get a chance, grab a hold of someone's digital camera and get a group shot of all your men. Scribble down the name, rank and a few words about the guys and send it off in an email to me. I'll post it on the main Jeep page. And while you're at it, send me a place I can mail you off a package. If you've got any special requests, make them. Just shy of ending up on the wrong side of the law or with a negative bank account, I'll do nothing less than my best.
Your tranny and t-case ought to be up to the challenge. I've been running 33s with stock gearing without a problem. And I have nearly 200,000 miles on it. I consider that tranny bulletproof. In racing applications though, there are a number of people who are choosing the manual over the auto, but that alone won't steer my clear of an auto for my applications.
With 35s, I'm thinking your best bet for keeping your tranny intact is to install a set of 4:11 gears. With reliability on your mind, you don't want it to have to work any harder than it needs to. Also, with a 4:1 t-case, I'd say a 4:11 gear ratio is a fine choice. Not only will you have great highway gears, but you'd still have a mighty fine crawl ratio when on the rocks.
Do you still need to change your ring and pinion? I'd say, in all practicality, yes. The 4:1 transfer case kit will only change the gear ratio as it pertains to 4-low. It won't effect 4-high or 2-high. For the short term, I don't think your Jeep would have any problem with stock gears and a set of 35s. It would, though, make your tranny work harder to get the Jeep up to speed. Furthermore, it would make your throttle response slugish.
Having the same objective for my XJ as you do yours, I chose to go with a suspension large enough for a set of 35" tires. I went with the Skyjacker 8" Rock Ready Suspension and am quite impressed with its ride and performance. Anyhow, because I am cheap, rather than shell out the big bucks all at once, something I can't afford to do, I am currently running a set of 33" tires that were already in my possession. With the 33s, the gears are a bit high but certainly manageable. In the meantime, I am saving up the resources to do the tire and gear swap in one shot. I believe this is the most pratical approach to building your dream rig. At least, it is working for me.
Until then, stay true, stay strong and remain forever faithful!!!
This may seem silly but I am waiting for my front drive shaft to be repaired on my 94 Grand Cherokee Ltd. Always in four wheel drive. Can I drive my Jeep temporarily with just the rear drive shaft in place? Thank You
Go for it. You won't hurt anything. In fact, you may just experience improved fuel economy.
THERE JEEP CREEP...
Years ago, I got a smoking deal on the hard top for my CJ-7, which included a Confer roof rack and tinted windows. Although I found others ranging from $600-1100, I picked mine up for about $500.
Just in the last five years alone, my hard top is pretty much useless, since it's probably spent the grand total of one month on the Jeep. Granted, I live in California. Because of this, I am considering selling it. Comparing prices, I've seen them commonly priced at over $900.
Being that your Jeep, the hard doors and hard top are a little more unique than a CJ-7's, you should be able to get some big bucks for them, if you ever find yourself in the need for some cash. I'm guessing a minimum of $1600, but I'm sure you'd be able to find a market and someone willing to pay somewhere into the thousands for the package, especially if you scrounged around on Ebay for them.
I'm thinking that's an excellent combo that makes for an easy fit. You just can't go wrong with the 4.3L. If you can get away with it, I believe the question comes down to this: When on the trail, would you rather change a faulty external fuel pump or an internal fuel pump? Here's another question: Which is easier to install? And another: Which is cheaper?
I recently got a 1984 grand wogoneer with a 360/auto and there is an air pump on the engine that was hooked to a rusted out hunk of metal connected to the exaust manifolds. My question is can I just discard the smog equipment and still use the same intake/exaust manifolds. If not, I have found a set of Hedman headers for 72-86 CJs w/ the AMC V8 p.n.99200, will these fit my chasis. And what about the intake, I'm sure someone makes a 4bbl. manifold for the AMC but I haven't found one yet. Thank you for any information you can give me.
Your Wagoneer and its powerplant are considered a prime project in my book. Your desire to upgrade from that archaic smog crap is admired and utterly encouraged, especially considering that many of the upgrades you're venturing toward will improve performance and reduce emissions. Mind you, though, that doesn't mean that it is legal.
That is perhaps the first question you'll want to ask yourself before you go any further. Can I evade the smog law dogs, or can I not? Either way, you'll want to save all the parts that you're replacing just in case you end up at the wrong end of the law with a rig that cannot be registered. Cover your rear end, as they say.
Since right is quickly becoming wrong and wrong quickly becoming right in this here society, let's keep forging RIGHT on ahead with our project Jeep. I'd probably jump right into a four barrel Holley 600 CFM carb and a high-flow K&N air filter. That solves most of what you'll want to do with the induction system.
Now, we have exhaust. Headers good. Which ones? I couldn't tell you what does better on the dyno, but I'll bet you that you get what you pay for. Keep that in mind when shopping for the cheapest deal on a set of headers. Top that off with a high-flow exhaust. Now, just in case you're attempting to keep this thing smog legal, you'll want to mount a high-flow catalytic converter. You'll want to use a setup similar to what the NASCAR guys are using. I ran into an old (5.0L) '78 Jeep CJ-7 the other day at my buddy's smog shop that had one of these babies on it. The emissions burned cleaner than a new car. No kidding. And it was the original engine with all the smog garbage firmly attached and functioning.
Anyhow, once I had that going for the rig, I'd set it up with an MSD ignition. You'll most certainly notice an increase in performance with that several hundred dollar upgrade. On the electrical, I'd eventually buy a new alternator, having the old one rebuilt with increased amperage output. Once that's done, I'd install the rebuilt one and save the new one as a backup. Keeping on that subject, get a set of 4 gauge or better jumper cables, 20 feet in length or better. Find a good place to stash them in the rig. I like to keep them wrapped in a durable nylon or canvas bag to keep things clean. And while I'm at it, I'd also fab a dual battery setup and change all the battery leads to some quality equipment.
Oops, we almost forgot a few things. Let's not forget the tires, suspension and lockers.
Tires? Well, it would depend upon what kind of driving I was doing, but I must admit I'm leaning more toward the BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain for frequent off-roading. Let's say a set of 35-inchers would do. For that size rig, I like the 35s. Though, if it were simply to be a cruiser that saw the dirt occasionally and possibly wanted to spare the expense of an eminent gearing upgrade, I'd lean more toward the 33-inch All-Terrains. You can't go wrong there.
Suspension? Well, I wouldn't go with any off-the-shelf setup. After I got the rig setup to expedition weight, I'd weigh each corner and take that to either National Spring or Alcan Spring for a custom set of springs. You'll want a drop pitman arm and probably some extended brake lines to finish it off. Either way, go only as high as you need for clearance. You want to maintain the handling at speed. If you have questions about this, talk to the guys at T&Js. Look for the link above.
Shocks? Simple for me. I choose Bilstein. Are there others? Darn right there are. I've got a few friends who beat the snot out of their trucks in the desert, who rave about Edelbrocks. I have yet to try them.
Lockers? Well, generally, I'd go with a Detroit in the rear and an ARB in the front. But Detroit does have its new electric unit on the market that seems to be a good choice. I don't know. I haven't run it. Either way, it comes down to a question of cash.
Cash? It's easy when you're spending someone else's money. Keep us posted on your project. Send photos.
jeep creep-how about old jeeps? in particular the old jeep dump truck-was is "factory" or did some one just put one together? Seen one anywhere for sale? Thanks msw
Dude, that bad boy was bought from Jeep and outfitted with the dump by some specialty manufactuer. There are a couple of Jeeps around my neck of the woods that have some pretty odd contraptions attached. Let's see, there's the fork lift Jeep. There's the tow truck Jeep. There's the farm implement Jeep. And, there's also the airport runway Jeep, to name a few. I'll have to get some shots of these relics. I might add though, most of these units are still in use.
It's this sort of situation that gets me to thinking about tracking down the idiots responsible for that carbed crap and tearing into 'em with a myriad malicious weaponry. But because I'm a man with enough self control to keep me sane and on this side of the jail cell, I can only dream of doing such things. And believe me, it's quite comforting to dream of doing such things.
Instead, for the reality side of my sadistic manner, I'd like to buy an army of puncture resistant and Kevlar coated Weeble Wobbles that resemble each of the penny-pinching engineers and marketing clowns that were responsible for the 4.2L's production, and beat them all senseless, which for either the real clown or the Weeble Wobble wouldn't be difficult to do. With each gruesomely vicious attack on the dummy, I'd recount each time I dumped my share of time and money into the bad memory of the pathetic 4.2L.
I vividly remember the hots days on the side of the trail, the soot-clogged catalytic converters, the belching black smoke, the fresh and deathly-flammable fuel oozing onto the hot exhaust manifold, the fires, the costly rebuilds, the restarts when trying to take the hill, the pain, the loss of pride, the agony, the poor fuel economy and the poor sap I made myself out to be by trying to keep the thing smog legal and in compliance the worthless side of our government that has been infiltrated by Eco-Nazis and freedom-hating liberals alike.
And because my acts must maintain a mode of noble selflessness for this here forum, I'd take up the plight of all 4.2L Jeepers and mass produce the Weeble Wobble "Jeepstool People Edition" for all 4.2L Jeepers. I'd plant them at dealerships, street corners, trail heads, junk yards, bars and off-road shops throughout the land. Redemption would be everywhere, and its historical shame would shun all who aim to make the same mistake on another Jeep for the rest of time.
Now, let's focus on the problem at hand. I did some checking on the web and came up with a few good articles that will give you some direction in making a sound decision.
I would be very greatful if you could help me out here. I own a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
It currently has a 2 inch lift and 31 inch mud terains. I have been searching for some good sites to find out some info about lifting it using a 3 to four inch suspention lift, and I also need to find out what sort of steering adjustments need to be made. I am also looking for ways to add some extra horse power to my 5.2 liter engine
Carl, you seem to be looking for what every Red-blooded American is looking for. If I were you, I'd be happy with what you had in the suspension and tire department. A two-inch suspension is perfect for a set of 31s. Don't go any higher than you need to.
But if you need to, then don't be shy. Ask yourself what purpose your Jeep will serve. Any higher a suspension and larger a tire size will begin to decrease the derivability and reliability factor. Everybody wants a big unit, but few can afford one and even fewer can comfortably live with one. Keep that in mind.
If I were to go big with a Grand, I'd likely stick with a Skyjacker Suspension, probably going with whatever would fit a set of 33" BFGoodrich Mud-Terrains. That's mighty big for that rig and will likely put you up around the 4.5-6" department.
What's good about the Skyjacker Suspension is that you can easily upgrade later on if you feel the need. This is why my niece and her husband chose to go with the Skyjacker Suspension for their Cherokee. It rides well and is ready to grow up, if the need arises.
And if the need arises and you can live with that, go with an 8" suspension once the 33" tires are worn out. Upgrade to 35" BFG Krawler T/As. You'll need a set of gears, if you go that big on tires. If you went this big and had to swap the gears, I'd say go with the Detroit in the rear and ARB Air Locker up front.
That 318 beneath the hood is much more effective than a 360 and can crank out some horses just the same. Don't go breaking your drivetrain's heart. Upgrade it before you give it throttle. But in my opinion, a heavy foot isn't needed for the trail. The only time you'll need that kind of power from your 318 is when you're towing. I'm thinking the key to upgrading your engine's components is for efficiency. Follow the advice of the guy's Cherokee above. MSD ignition, a K&N high-flow air filter system, a quality high-flow exhaust system make for a good start.
Strange. But, I've heard of stranger things occurring. I have never had this problem with my '91, even at 90 MPH. If I'm not mistaken, there is a bolt you can tighten directly beneath where the mirror mounts vertically.
Mr. Jeep Creep.
Are Swedish babes really what they are made up to be? Hmm. The thought is most certainly something worth wondering. But this is a Jeep forum. Let's get back down to question at hand.
Niklas, I'm guessing it's a loose or worn belt. I change my belts every year, whether they need it or not. And, I always carry spares. For your deal, I would guess that the belt is simply a little to loose. Adjust it as recommended in your repair manual. If you don't have a repair manual, get one.
Yikes! I'd say you did. I'd need a little more information to solve this perplexing problem. Why did you replace the oil sending unit? That may seem like a rhetorical question, but then again, it may not be.
Considering that there are a number of spark plug wires in that vicinity, I'd guess that you may have knocked one of them loose. But what is most important here is coil wire. I bet you knocked that baby from its ends. Check it out and write back if you need further assistance.
Manufacturer is not the issue. Size is. You'll want a rim that is 5 lug at 4-1/2" apart.
Dear Mr. Creep,
the proud owner of a New 2003 Jeep Wrangler Feedom Edition. Words cannot
express how happy I am to have it. However I do have one concern, the
acceleration seems a bit sluggish. It's a 6cyl 5 speed, and I suspect
its how I drive it. This is my first new car and I am babying it, but I
need to know how hard I can push it without beating on it. The shift
light is throwing me off. It goes on and then if I give it more gas
without shifting it goes off, then comes on again. I can't make heads or
tails of it, where
Congratulations on your new Jeep. Send a photo, when you get a chance to enjoy it in the rough. Until then, listen up.
Last year, I broke down and bought my first and probably my last new vehicle. It's a Ford F-350 Power Stroke Diesel 4x4. Attached was a sticker price of over $42,000. But because a guy would be crazy to pick a rig up for full price, I jumped into it for nothing more than the low 30s. Although that's the beauty of buying over the Internet, it's still a massive chunk of change for a guy who likes to live within his means.
Anyhow, at that price, I was afraid to fire it up, though I loved hearing that massive 7.3L diesel clack, as I hauled ass down the highway with a Jeep in tow. I was afraid to earn its first desert stripes, as I hunted down deserted routes of the Mojave. Up high in the mountains, I feared the tight trails, tree branches and twigs that tend to cut through the virgin paint job like a knife, but what the hell, it was all in the hunt for adventure, making use of the freedom our forefathers earned and we must preserve.
THE POINT IS: Don't sweat it. Enjoy life. It's a Jeep.
Adhere to the normal maintenance schedule. Replace or upgrade only with quality parts and services.
Driving? Well, when you're out for some seat-of-your-pants-speed, just keep the throttle within the red line, and you'll be all right. Otherwise, for everyday driving, reaching just beyond the 3,000 RPM range isn't anything to worry about.
You can do a lot to improve your Jeep's performance. Just as some of the above mentioned upgrades, I'd recommend a high-flow air filter system and exhaust for starters.
Nevertheless, enjoy life. Drive your Jeep.
Dear Jeep Creep,
I'm a newbie Jeep owner. I just bought a stock 1998 Wrangler 5-speed 4cyl. Jeep with 32,000 miles on it from a reputable gear head. It has the stock rims and tires. I'm wondering what you would recommend regarding the rims and the tires. Mainly highway and street, I might do a little offroading mainly on dirt roads... Any recommendations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Todd, San Diego, CA
Well, when I met her, the little woman had a four-cylinder Wrangler in front of a five-speed transmission. We outfitted it with nothing more than 31" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/As on American Racing Wheels and a K&N Air Filter. Springs? Suspension? Nope. All stock.
I must say, I was impressed with that Jeep to the extent that I regularly chose to drive it over my six-cylinder CJ-7. Among many of the Wrangler's features, it's light weight and factory-equipped limited slip allowed it to motor through most anything with ease.
After over 200,000 miles, the Jeep ran reliably and ran well. The first maintenance it received was when I began driving at just over 100,000 miles. After that, it received regular maintenance. Beyond that, the only thing we had a problem with was keeping it parked on the weekends and the weak Renault transmission. We changed that out around 160,000 miles.
What do I recommend? Well, that Jeep has got a lot of miles ahead of it, use 'em to your fancy as I did.
As with the Wagoneer above, I'd only recommend ditching the smog crap if you have a secure method of getting away with it. There's no sense spending the bucks on a better running Jeep if you can't register the thing for everyday driving.
Maybe there's a friend of a friend who can do the smog deed for you. Maybe there's a guy in the back room of some burnt out basement who will gladly hand you a "legitimate" certificate for a hundred bucks. Maybe you swap all the old parts back on come smog check time but run the stuff that makes your Jeep run right the rest of the time.
But if you can't evade the wrath of the idiotic Smog Nazis, consider registering your vehicles in another state, where the Smog Nazis aren't allowed to roam.
As for the upgrades you've mentioned, you're on the right track. And as I've said before, keep your eyes on the road and take the advice of others with a "grain of discretion."
Nope. I don't think you'd have to replace the entire column. Although I doubt the failure is in the column itself, it could be, and if it is, it would likely be with the tilt steering wheel locking lever. That would be a pain in the butt to fix and parts may be very difficult to find. Even if a junk yard is willing to sell you the part, it'll probably cost a pretty penny.
That old '78 Jeep CJ-7 that I ran into the other day, which surprisingly had tilt steering, had the same problem. But its problem existed instead with the mountain hardware of the steering wheel. It is possible that your problem is much the same. Because much of the hardware was gone, we used some plumber's tape to solve the problem. Out of sight, out of mind. It worked.
Personally, I don't think the steering column is worth $800.
I agree with the idea of widening the stance of your Jeep. Although you can do this by mounting a set of rims with more of an offset, I'd prefer you do this by mounting a wider set of axles beneath your rig. A good choice would be something from an older Ford F-150, which came with a Dana 44 up front and a Ford 9" in the rear. Keep your eyes peeled for a good price. If you're lucky, you may even be able to find a set of axles geared more toward your needs and fitted with lockers.
Do not use wheel spacers!
have continually had problems with the zippers on my '98 Wrangler door
windows, to the point now where they don't work at all. A real pain! I
have asked the dealer to look at the problem, but I was told "we
don't handle that." A crock in and of itself, but where do I go
Although the dealer generally wouldn't touch such a problem, the sales chump could have been more helpful - to the benefit and good name of the dealership. If I owned the dealership, I would have put the sales chump in check.
I can only suggest that you attempt to remedy the problem by working in some WD-40 (or similar substance) into the zippers, working it back and forth until it works itself free. If you're not successful, it's probably time to buy a Bestop replacement top, regularly lubing the zippers in order to prevent a similar predicament in the future.
The Colorado winters (rain, mud, snow and road salt) take their toll on a vehicle, the soft top included.
friend is installing the MOPAR fuel injection kit on his 1981 cj5 6
OK. I believe your problem is with finding a header that has a port for the exhaust sensor. I had a buddy that simply drilled out a hole and welded a threaded nut in its place. This enabled him to screw the sensor in as required to make it legal. If this is not the case, let me know, and we'll find an answer for you.
I have an 88 YJ that I bought a little over a year ago. I have already replaced dreaded Puegot with a world class T5 Tranny. I am currently runningg 33X12.5 tires. I am searching for a replacement for my rear axle (Dana 35). What would be my best choice for this and what would I have to do to keep my Dana 30 up front?
Nope. There's no reason why you'd need to keep the Dana 30 up front. A good replacement for your rear would be a Ford 8.8" with disc brakes. Some Ford Explorers and Rangers are equipped with these axles. Another option is swiping an axle from a Dodge Durango. But for the front, keep your eye out for a Dana 44.
I just recently added a 3 inch suspension lift on my 88 Jeep Wrangler and the ride of the Jeep has become very bouncy. Although my Jeep looks great, is there any way to stop the bounciness of the suspension lift?
As they say, you get what you pay for. And if you don't do your homework, you get it even worse. You got it, right?
After shelling out the money for that spine crunshing ride, your best bet is to remove a leaf spring from each spring pack. That will certainly help. Your shocks could also be the culprit, but work on the leaf pack first. As for shocks, go with something quality. I use Bilstein.
Also, keep in mind, although you usually won't hear me badmouthing a company, you will hear me talking good about products I know and trust. Take that with a "grain of descretion," and do your homework.
'89 wagoneer's ignition system took a crap yesterday. It will turn over
I'm wondering why you say the ignition took a crap, if the thing is getting spark. Is it getting gas? This may sound stupid, but I've woken up without my brain before, and that was the day my Jeep ran out of gas, and I blamed the ignition.
Yes , jeep creep: I have a question, I have 1989 jeep Cherokee and I?m having problems getting it started,it ran ok last night and this morning when I got in and tried to start it , it would?nt turn over almost like its not getting any fuel. It did this about a week ago, my wife said in the morning and later that evening I got in , and it cranked over. Could it be the fuel filter and if it is can you please tell me where its located? Thank you
Yes, it could be something with the fuel system, such as you suggested, the fuel filter, but I love to blame the Crank Positioning Sensor (CPS or TDC), which has been the culprit in several rigs that I've had my hands on. It is located on top of the bell housing in a pretty tight spot and runs about $80. It's a cheap place to start replacing, especially when you've got hired hands that are working by the hour on other things that aren't remedying the problem.
I put the transmission and transfer case in neutral and unlock the steering. The Jeep will follow you wherever you go. For anything longer than 200-300 miles, I usually remove the rear driveshaft, which takes about five minutes, especially if you have an older Jeep with the Dana 300 in it.
hi my name is clint skeen. i am 16 years old. i have a 1978 cj5 jeep. i was wondering if you could tell me what that thump is in the back floor of it. if you do know or know somebody that knows what it is please tell me where to locate it and how to fix it if you can. this thump has been there since we have bought it it drives me crazy every time you hit a little bump. thanks, CLint skeen
You mean, as in a noise, right? When in park, climb underneath and check it out. Look first at the driveshaft. Grab it and rotate it, looking for excess play. While down there, keep and eye out for any broken pieces, such as spring perches. Chances are though, the worn part is problem your rear end. I bet you that is where the thump is coming from. Have a driveline shop check it out for you.
Hey intermitantly at about 40 MPH the front of my XJ will schimee real bad, but no at 80 only about forty and every once in a while, when i slow down it stops. Hey jeep Creep how come?
What? Dude, lay off the drugs. Look for loose or warn parts in your front end (bearings, bushings and so on).
Was there ever a CJ5 made with a 304 V8 and an Auto Tranny with A/C ?
As far as I know, the CJ-5 could have come equipped with everything but the air conditioning. In my opinion, the 304 was a good choice.
i was wondering who made the best replacement header for the 4.0. I have a '98 tj sport and have fallen victim to the dreaded factory header crack. i don't mind spending the cash if it is worth it, but i don't want to pay for just the name. borla seems to be the most poular,but is it the best in terms of performance? other brands such as hooker and banks power have come out with new headers recently but they all cost around $400.are they that much better than the pacesetter tfx that sells for $260. my last concern is the routing of the head pipe. i would like to keep the stock routing to avoid having to disconnect the exhaust to work on the tranny etc... thanks for your help!!!
My knowledge is a bit outdated in this department. In the future, I'll do some research in this department. I have never heard of Pacesetter TFX. Hooker and Banks Power are respected names, and as I always say, you get what you pay for. Alex Parker is looking to do a review on the header manufacturered by Banks Power in the near future. Stay tuned.
have a 1998 tj and need to get new headers and having a tough time
choosing the write company. my jeep has a 4inch supension lift
flowmaster exhaust and kand n intake. any help would be much appericated
thanks a lot
Write is wrong, unless you're writing that which is right.
I assume it's got good oil pressure and that you are experiencing no other problems. Other than what I am going to suggest below, your rig may be overheating, but given the info you've given me, I doubt it.
Generally, the light will come on at about 60,000 miles, without fail, indicating that it is time for you to take it to the dealer and replace the 02 sensor. As you know, the dealer is overpriced. This part can easily be replaced in your own garage, for a few bucks and an hour of your time.
Robert, if you haven't used the shocks and still have the original boxes, try exhanging them for a set that will fit. Make sure you explain the measurements and application to the guy behind the counter.
The shocks you have will not work.
have a 2002 jeep wrangler and want to put a lift and bigger tires. Is
I'd say you ought to learn a bit more about Jeeps before you begin building it with the wrong garbage that's usually thrown over the counter. If I had a daughter, I'd steer her straight with and true by having her purchase a set of 31" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KOs. Mounted on a set of stock rims, there may be slight rubbing but nothing that'll harm anything. Enjoy that for a while. Then come back at me for more, if you dare.
Hey jeep creep i just bought a 2003 Rubicon are they all the are cracked up to be?im a first time jeep owner saw it and had to have it i had it out and i think torture tested the jeep rather well it came threw what i thought to be really well but i would really like a expert opinion.also what can i do to make the jeep better or more powerful somemore horsepower wood be good. saw one super charged at the local car show it looked incredable but is it worth it what are the practical things i can do thx much.Rodney McCULLOCH
Rodney, dude (as I'm shaking and scratching my head with a perplexed look on my face), you're out of control with that lazy ass attempt at the English language. Your spelling and grammar are despicable.
Which brings the day's events to mind. I dropped by the DMV today. Here in California, they're handing out licsenses like green cards and a guy has got to know Spanish just to get the daily deeds done.
Anyhow, I stood there, last in a line of about 20. After 10 minutes in the back of the line that wasn't going anywhere, I had become quite agitated that there were two older white ladies behind the counter. There they were, two DMV employees, laughing, giggling, and having a splendid time while poor saps such as myself were standing around waiting for service.
Well, at about the time I figured enough was enough and as I was hopping over the ropes to let them have it, a guy walks up to the both of them. He brakes into a Spanish language rage. Although he was bordering on th side of disrespect, I was impressed at his fervor. It seems he was upset that he didn't pass the old driving test.
Well, as he was winding down his rage, I looked over at the two ladies, who themselves were scratching their heads with perplexed looks on their faces. And when he stopped, what do you think happened? Yep! You guessed it. They calmly turned to one another, shrugged their shoulders, turned to him and said, "I'm sorry, but we don't speak Spanish."
Immediately, I looked at each person in front of me and took note of them and their ignorance of the English language. For a moment, I wondered, "What the hell happened to the Land of the Free and Home of the Brave? Wasn't the United States Constitution once written in English?" I pulled out the pocket-sized U.S. Constitution from my back pocket to read:
"We the People of the United States, in Order to form a more perfect Union, establish Justice, insure domestic Tranquility, provide for the common defence, promote the general Welfare, and secure the Blessings of Liberty to ourselves and our Posterity, do ordain and establish this Constitution for the United States of America!!!"
I checked my pulse. It was good. I then made one last check on the old heartbeat. It was pumping blood and every bit alive and well. Yep, the union is still intact.
I looked around at the signs upon the walls. Spanish. I listened to the conversation. Spanish. I glanced at the pamphlets placed on the counters. Spanish. Spanish. Spanish.
And when I got up to the counter to renew my registration, I lucked out. She spoke English. Here's the kicker, though. She could not find the English version of the documents I was required to fill out. She was quite perterbed, shuffling through her papers and those on the desks that surrounded her. As she was apologizing about the DMV's lack of appropriate supplies, I looked her dead in the eye, both of us shaking our heads with disgust.
Until next month, keep your chin up, your eyes open, and your right hand over your heart. Duty. Honor. Country.