Remedies for the Jeep TJ/XJ Death Wobble - - Jeep at Off-Road.com
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Remedies for the Jeep TJ/XJ Death Wobble

Source: Jeep at Off-Road.com

2001 September -- If you drive a lifted Jeep TJ or XJ, then chances are you've encountered the dreaded "TJ Shimmy" before, otherwise known as the "Death Wobble." If you haven't yet, it's only a matter of time.

Here you can see the adjustment sleeves for the alignment, also the tie rod and steering stabilizer.

The shimmy can be a pant-wetting experience for those first timers in the crowd. Those of us seasoned veterans have taken precautions to the effect, which causes your TJ's front end and steering wheel to violently shack side to side. It usually occurs at about the 40-45 MPH mark.

The only thing that seems to help in this situation is either a shot of Novacaine, which we don't recommend, or slowing down to a snail's pace and on the way home consider what follows.

I myself have encountered this shimmy more times than I choose to admit and couldn't understand how, after dumping wads of cash on a suspension, did I get results such as the infamous Death Wobble. Luckily, there is a cure, and it's fairly cheep.

You can see the second hole drilled in the track bar brace, that was not a solution.

I have narrowed the shimmy down to 5 major causes. The first of which is that your alignment is off. Because of the scissor type of steering on TJs, when you lift a TJ, your jeep gets toed-in anywhere from 2-3 inches more than factory. Your Jeep should only be towed in about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. Have your jeep aligned if you have lifted it over 2 inches with out a recent alignment.

The next possible cause of the shimmy comes from the balance of the tires. If your front tires weights have been knocked off by an extreme rock crawling incident, you may wish to have them rebalanced. Also as these big mud tires wear down, they loose a lot of there weight, and this can also cause them to come out of balance. For the most part this is the main cause of the shimmy, but not always.

Here you can see what a solid mounting heim joint is. These types of track bars are very easy to install as well.

The third cause is the track bar. My lift kit didn't feel the need to supply a longer track bar, they felt all that was needed was for you to merely drill a new hole in the axle bracket, this is not a permanent solution at all. I managed to blow out the ball joint at the end of the track bar within weeks of installing my lift. This blown-out joint allowed for side to side play in the steering and would only help the shimmy along. Get a track bar with a beefy heim joint that is adjustable in length. This

makes for a very solid mount and should you ever wear out your heim, you can easily replace it. Several companies make track bars that are heim jointed, and they are not very expensive. Plus, you do gain a little more flex with a track bar that is properly bent to fit large lifts, and we all know you can't get enough flex.

This is an adjustable lower link. With four of these you can adjust your castor angles with ease.

The fourth cause is from excessive castor angles. When you lift a TJ, you need to adjust the lower arms longer, and or the upper arms shorter to put the castor angles back to factory limits. Have a reputable alignment shop do this for you, as it is quite a task that needs to be precise. You should only have to worry about this if you have a lift of three inches or more.

The fifth and final cause of the shimmy can be warped brake rotors. Jeep did not design rotors to handle massive amounts of heat very well. I have managed to warp my rotors in 18000 miles. All you need to do is get them turned and this will only cost about 40 bucks. If you are not sure if your rotors are warped, you can test them if you don't have Anti-lock brakes. All you have to do is drive down a stretch of highway and slam on the brakes. If you feel a pulsating feel through he pedal, then they are warped. However if you have anti-locks, this will be masked.

Here is the coil clamp that comes factory on the driver side.

One last thing to keep in mind is that from the factory your TJ has one coil clamp on the driver side coil that holds it to the axle. I have heard that by drilling a hole and putting a clamp on the passenger side as well, the shimmy is much more controllable. However, this is not a cause, just something to mask the real cause. Keep these thoughts in mind next time you hear of someone whose Jeep is doing the Shimmy Shake or the Death Wobble, and let them know there is a solution - and it ain't ballroom dancing.

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Comments and questions from our Readers
 Posted Jul 30 2007 01:55PM
Thanks for the advice. This is as complete of an article as I can find concerning this. I bought my jeep in 2005 and I have been trying to deal with this problem. It seems like everything I get an oil change / tire rotation, I also have to get the tires balanced and the vehicle realigned. Talk about an expensive vehicle!
 Posted Sep 06 2007 09:35AM
Hey, I just had the DW fixed in my Jeep '01 cherokee...the bottom line is get your tires aligned and balanced and replace the stab. bar. Its that easy...not expensive either. Thats good news!
 Posted Sep 13 2007 03:36PM
This article does a good job of describing some, but not all causes of vibration and shimmy. But it does not seem to deal much with true Death Wobble, which is an extremely violent shaking. No mention of control arm bushings, track bar torque specs, ball joints, hub assemblies, etc. I will assume the author has not experienced true death wobble yet, just a sever shake/shimmy/wobble.
 Posted Apr 21 2008 06:11PM
hey! i thought your article was very helpful in diagnosing my problem. i have a 2000 jeep cherokee and i just recently experienced the death wobble do all these problems go hand in hand with the cherokee?
 Posted Aug 09 2008 08:18AM
2004 Jeep Rubicon. Took it to a Neuwirth Jeep local in wilmington, nc. They test drove and said it was the worst wobble they had ever seen and the vehicle was unsafe to drive. My total bill was $1002.00. After they replaced most of the front end (including control arms, steering damper linkage, and steering tube, with tire rotation, balance and "4" wheel alignment) The technician put his hands up and said, "Sorry, I can't fix the problem, there is nothing more I can think of". Frustrated as I drove home, crossing a railroad track as the shake started to occur thinking of where I can dump this "lemon" I recalled cape fear 4x4 truck shop and thankfully met Danny Farrow coming out. Within 5 hours he fabricated new track arms, made some slight adjustments and I have not yet been able to recreate the death wobble over bridge gaps and railroad tracks. The problem can be fixed with a capable experienced shop.
 Posted Aug 26 2008 05:09PM
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and WAS part of the death wobble club. I found these online forums to be very helpful in solving my problem. The Following was the solution to my problem. 1: new rotors: warped rotors can cause an initial wobble that will cause steering components to loosen over time. 2. Drag Link: I replaced the draglink tie-rod ends which SOLVED the PROBLEM!!! The initial wobble from my warped rotors lead the this problem worsening. I found the parts at a local pep-boys/ kragen auto and fixed the problem by my self in two hours. Once you replace these ends, you should notice much more responsive steering. 3. An alignment will more than likely be necessary after replacing the tie-rod ends that connect to the drag link. Hope this helps and please be safe while driving with the infamous DEATH WOBBLE!!
 Posted Oct 25 2008 02:30PM
I had a 95 wrangler with death wobble and belive it or not when I finely chsnged the front shocks it was gone.When I bought my all most new 03 wrangler from my dealer it happened again and they could not fix the problem.I lived with the problem for a year and when I changed the stock Wrangler 30 by 9.50 tires to 32 by 11.50 tires it went away.I have a 2" spring lift and a rear adjustible track bar and the ride on the road and off road preformance is out standing.
 Posted Nov 19 2008 09:15AM
I have experience with two Jeeps -- a '66 CJ-6 and now I own an '88 Jeep Cherokee (the CJ-6 was purchased in '71 and is still in the family). Both vehicles have expressed the "death wobble" an in both cases a steering stabilizer solved the problem. On the Cherokee, I replaced the stabilizer and years ago we installed a stabilizer on the CJ-6. Neither vehicle has been lifted and both vehicles have traveled some incredible trails.
 Posted Nov 27 2008 03:34AM
The cheapest way to fix the death wobble on a old jeep is to replace the upper and lower control arm bushings
 Posted Jan 15 2009 09:42AM
These vehicles are designed from the factory with stock parts and are not meant to be changed. if you want to stop the death wobble, put all of the factory parts back on. this includes wheels and tires and ALL suspension parts. THIS MEANS ALL OF YOU REDNECK MORONS!!!!
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