I decided to do the rear end first, knowing it would be easier and
I could get a feel for the difficulty of changing the springs,
arms, and other parts common to the front and rear. Also, I had
confidence that I could put the transfer case in 4hi (with the rear
driveshaft removed) and turn around the TJ.
Details
Tools
Notes
1.
Raise and support rear of vehicle with jack
stands.
Jack(s), jack stands
The taller you can raise the vehicle on the
stands, the better off you will be when lowering the axle to
install the new springs. Use 6 ton jack stands if you
can.
2.
Remove wheels.
3/4" lug wrench
3.
Remove shocks.
18mm, 15mm, 1/2" sockets, ratchet
extension
4.
Remove the sway bar end links.
18mm, 15mm, sockets
5.
Support the rear axle.
Jack(s), jack stands
A floor jack is the easiest to raise the axle,
directly under the differential.
6.
Remove the axle end of the track bar. Loosen
the frame end of track bar.
18mm, 15mm, T55 sockets
This will ease installation the springs. You
will first have to remove the plastic piece that covers the track
bar mount at the axle. You can discard this plastic piece. I
removed the track bar completely at this time.
7.
Install RE track bar relocating bracket, drill
out mounting holes.
3/4" socket and box end wrench, 5/16" drill
bit, drill
Use supplied bolts, nuts, and washers. Drill
the holes to 5/16" where the plastic piece fasteners were
located.
8.
Remove the coil springs.
Spring compressors (optional)
By pulling off the bump stops and having the
track bar disconnected, you can get the springs off without
compressors. I drooped the axle all the way down with the floor
jack, and the springs came right out.
9.
Remove the lower control arms.
13/16" socket and box end wrench
I raised the axle a bit to do this, and put it
on jack stands (after springs were removed).
10.
Install RE lower control arms.
13/16" socket and box end wrench
The new RE lower arms are not adjustable. The
end with the rubber bushing mounts at the frame. The more rounded
side of the ends point upward. Torque to 130 Ft-Lbs. Reuse the
factory hardware.
11.
Remove the upper control arms.
15mm socket or open end wrench
Self-holding nuts are used, so you will only
need one wrench. You may want to release the muffler brackets,
though I used an open end wrench instead, which worked fine without
moving the muffler.
12.
Install RE upper control arms.
15mm socket or open end wrench
Use the lengths RE gave you when you bought
your kit (1/2" longer than stock in my case). Reuse factory
hardware. Torque to 55 Ft-Lbs. Reposition the muffler and reattach
brackets if you moved them.
13.
Remove yellow insert from bump stops, remove
bump stop cup, Place RE (small) spacers between cup and
frame.
1/2" socket
You may have removed the yellow part of the
bump stop when removing the springs.
14.
Install springs.
Spring compressor (optional)
With the track bar disconnected, and by
placing the bump stops inside the spring while seating it, you
should be able to seat the springs without a compressor. I drooped
the axle to the floor and had no problems seating the springs.
Raise the axle back up a bit after seating the springs.
15.
Reinstall the bump stops.
1/2" socket
Squeeze the cup and yellow piece through the
spring. Tighten the new supplied bolt through the cup and insert
yellow bump stop.
16.
Reinstall the track bar in the upper
bracket.
18mm, 15mm
Do not yet tighten this end of the track
bar.
17.
Install RE longer sway bar end
links.
18mm, 15mm
18.
Install new rear shocks.
18mm, 15mm, 1/2" sockets, ratchet
extension
Bar pins go in the CAN end of the rear shocks.
Mount the CAN end of the shocks UP, to provide necessary
clearance.
19.
Reinstall rear wheels.
3/4" lug wrench
Torque to 90 Ft.-Lbs.
The rear end is now complete. I removed the rear driveshaft and
placed the TJ in 4hi to turn the Jeep around. You should have no
trouble turning the Jeep around if you need to.
Transfer Case Drop
(not necessary if using the transfer case output conversion and new
rear driveshaft)
1.
Support the Transfer Case
Jack(s)
Use 1 or 2 jacks directly under the
crossmember.
2.
Remove 3 bolts on driver side of
crossmember.
3/4" socket
3.
Lower jack(s) on driver side and insert
spacer.
You may want to loosen the opposite side bolts
to allow this side of the crossmember to lower enough to install
the spacer.
4.
Bolt crossmember back to frame.
Use supplied longer bolts and new
washers.
5.
Repeat steps 2-4 on passenger
side.
The transfer case drop will most likely not solve all driveline
vibration problems. To keep driveline performance at a maximum, RE
recommends installing the CV driveshaft and slip-yoke eliminator
kit.
Removing the transfer case drop will give you maximum ground
clearance under your transfer case. Removal is reverse of
installation.
Front End
1.
Raise and support front of vehicle with jack
stands.
Jack(s), jack stands
The taller you can raise the vehicle on the
stands, the better off you will be when lowering the axle to
install the new springs.
2.
Remove wheels.
3/4" lug wrench
3.
Remove shocks.
5/8", 1/2" sockets, 1/2" open end
wrench
4.
Remove the sway bar end links.
15mm socket and boxed end wrench
Strike a hammer against the sway bar while
pulling down on the link to help it release.
5.
Remove the spring retainer clamp on the
driver's side.
13mm socket
You can buy one of these for the passenger
spring: Chrysler P/N: 6502468 & 52005917.
6.
Remove the coil springs.
Spring compressors (optional)
By pulling off the bump stops and cups and
having the track bar disconnected, you can get the springs off
without compressors. I drooped the axle all the way to the ground,
and the springs came right out.
7.
Remove the lower control arms.
13/16" socket and box end wrench
The lower arms have a caster adjuster which
will be reused. Mark the position of the caster bolt on the axle
mount. I made about 5 marks on each one.
8.
Install RE lower control arms.
13/16" socket and box end wrench
The new RE lower arms are not adjustable. The
end with the rubber bushing mounts at the frame. The more rounded
side of the ends point upward. Reuse the factory hardware. Set the
caster back to stock while tightening.
9.
Remove the upper control arms.
15mm socket
Self-holding nuts are used, so you will only
need one wrench.
10.
Install RE upper control arms.
15mm socket
Use the lengths RE gave you when you bought
your kit (1/4" longer than stock in my case). Reuse factory
hardware. Torque to 55 Ft-Lbs. Heim joint goes at the frame mount.
RE now includes correct length bolts for the axle end
mount.
11.
Install braided brake lines.
T40, tubing wrench
Remove mount plate from frame before changing
brake line. You should be able to work the line better with it
free. Install new RE bracket plate onto frame, and install new
brake line through the hole in the new bracket, securing it with
the C clip.
12.
Drill out hole in lower spring
pad.
5/16" drill bit
Droop the axle on the side you are drilling to
fit your drill in under the upper spring perch.
13.
Use self-tapping bolt through RE (large)
spacer to cut threads in the lower spring pad.
Remove the bolt and spacer after cutting
threads. They will be reinstalled later. Use cutting fluid, and
take your time!
14.
Install springs.
Spring compressor (optional)
With the track bar disconnected, and by
placing the bump stops and spacers inside the spring while seating
it, you should be able to seat the springs without a compressor. I
removed the bump stop cup to give a bit more room. When installing
springs, place bump stop cup, bump stop, and spacer inside the
spring. Turn spring to index the lower end into the indent on the
lower pad. I had to droop the axle to the floor and jack up the
frame a bit while my partner worked the spring in. Actually it was
easier than I thought it would be.
15.
Thread bump stop bolt into lower spring
pad.
1/2" socket
Also reattach the cup above and replace the
yellow bump stop.
16.
Install spring retainer(s).
13mm socket
Driver side only unless you bought
another.
17.
Install bar pins in new shocks.
Bench vice, grease
You should install the front shocks CAN DOWN,
so make sure to put the bar pin in the CAN end of the shock. Grease
the bushing, place the shock in the vice, and work the bar pin into
the bushing. Not too hard.
You may have done this earlier to let the axle
droop more. Hammer the separator into the press fit until the track
bar drops out.
20.
Drill hole for new track bar.
9/16" drill bit
Drill upper frame mount with 9/16" bit. I had
to remove the tie rod from the driver side to do this. A few whacks
with a hammer did it.
21.
Install new track bar.
T50 socket
Using new hardware at the frame mount, install
RE track bar. Torque lower bolt to 55 Ft-Lbs. Leave the top loose
for now.
21.
Install sway bar disconnects.
3/4" socket and open end wrench
Insert stud on top of adapter through holes in
ends of sway bar, secure with washer and nut. Attach end link to
adaptor with supplied hardware. Bolt lower section of link to axle
mount using existing hardware and spacer. Install center section
and pins. I had to space out the lower links further with washers
to line up the upper and lower links.
22.
Reinstall wheels.
3/4" lug wrench
Torque to 90 Ft-Lbs.
The front end is complete. Lower vehicle. Keep the transfer case in
4hi until the slip yoke eliminator and new driveshaft are
installed. Perform the following tasks before driving the Jeep.
1.
Adjust front track bar.
13/16" socket and Vice Grips
Center the Jeep over the axle, have someone
push on it if need be, or disconnect swaybar and turn wheel to full
lock. This will lean the Jeep enough to center it. Adjust the heim
joint on the track bar until it fits into the upper mount when the
body is centered. Tighten jam nut and torque to 130
Ft-Lbs.
2.
Bleed brakes
Bleeding tool, small wrench
If you don't know how, find someone who does.
DO NOT drive the Jeep until this is done.
3.
Tighten rear track bar
T55 socket
Torque to 130 Ft-Lbs.
4.
Double check all nuts and bolts.
Re-torque all nuts and bolts after 100 miles.
I found just a few bolts that loosened, and used Loktite on them
when retightening.
5.
Align vehicle
Very important to get a professional alignment
after major suspension work.
I used a short transfer case shaft conversion kit and CV joint
driveshaft, which is different than the kit provided with the
Rubicon Express lift. Here are instructions for installing the slip
yoke eliminator and driveshaft supplied by Rubicon Express.
1.
Remove the rear driveshaft
2.
Mark splines of transfer case output shaft to
leave 1" of splines remaining on shaft. Use tape around the shaft
to mark all the way around it.
3.
Using an abrasive wheel, cut the shaft at the
mark, leaving the 1" spline on the shaft.
4.
Using die grinder, grind the end of the shaft
until it is square.
5.
Draw crosshairs on the shaft end, and center
punch the shaft.
6.
Using supplied drill bit, drill a pilot hole
in the end of the shaft.
7.
Remove the stock U Joint from the slip yoke,
and place it on the end of the shaft. This will help keep the drill
bit straight as you drill.
8.
Drill 1 1/4" into the shaft which you cut. Use
cutting oil and go slowly.
9.
Using supplied tap, cut threads into the end
of the output shaft where you just drilled. Tapping involved using
cutting oil, and screwing in the tap, then back out, then in
repeatedly. Clean the tap regularly.
10.
Install the new yoke with supplied bolt and
Loktite. Use a rubber mallet to start the yoke if need
be.
Install the new driveshaft sent to you by Rubicon
Express. I
recommend the CV style
shaft, which will give you better
chance of avoiding all driveline vibrations.
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