• There is no replacement for displacement
• You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

• Engine
• Radiator
• Transmission
• Axles
• Transfer Case
• Manifold
• Exhaust
• Possible lifts to clear modified parts
• And the list can grow, and grow and grow.

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Good evening from Ken & Pam in the Kootenays of British Columbia. We have a 1989 Jeep Wagoneer. I think we may have contacted you earlier this year with a crank shaft positioning sensor problem and you were right-on the money. We've experiencing problems and hope that you can help again. Lately we've noticed a couple of things that may, or may not be connected. Once in a while it over revs when it starts-up AND it's started to stall out every so often (sometimes on an incline, sometimes on the flat, sometimes when idling). We think it may have something to do with fuel injection and/or the module that regulates the fuel intake. SUGGESTIONS, please.

Hi Ken & Pam, Good to hear from yo again.Start by putting some fuel injection cleaner in the fuel tank... Then pull the throttle body off and clean it up. Pay attention to the Idle Speed Control Motor... That should take care of the idle... Let me know what happens. LEVE

Leve I tested the Throttle Position Sensor with the key on the voltage at the sensor was 0.8 volts with the throttle closed and 4.7 volts with (WOT).I also tested the idle control Valve and its by puting it in gear while watching the RPMs and the puting it back into park to see if the idle returned to the same RPMs before and it did. Could it be the Idle Relay and Solenoid, and is there away to test Idle Relay Solenoid? Kootenay Pam and Ken Hi, again Leve: Action: As suggested back in January we tried putting some fuel injection cleaner in the fuel tank. Then, just recently, we pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it up with Carburetor Cleaner, and cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve (it was really filthy). Is the Idle Speed Control Motor you mentioned below the same as the Idle Air Control Valve? Result: We're no longer stalling out now, stalling has been replaced with intermittent over idling (revs at between 1.5 - 3 on the RPMs) If vehicle shut off and turned back on within 5 minutes the idle is back down: however, if you take it out for a drive - stop and put vehicle into 'park' position it's back to over idling. Suggestions, again, please. New update.... According to the Chilton Jeep repair manual for our make and model - I've now replace what they refer to as the Idle Relay but it did nothing. This part identified as "idle relay" by Chilton is also identified by Renix as the "fan control relay" that we apparently needed to replace any way but replacing it did not fix the idle problem. As listed in my earlier message I did the following tests and am running our of options that I can test for: * Throttle Position Sensor (with the key on the voltage at the sensor was 0.8 volts with the throttle closed and 4.7 volts with [WOT]), * Idle Control Valve (by putting it in gear while watching the RPM's and then putting it back into part to see if the idle returns to the same RPM's as before and it did). I can't test the Idle Air Control Valve(Chilton's identification for this part) and/or Idle Stepper Motor [Renix's identification for the same part] because I cannot find information or instructions on how to test this part without purchasing special tools. (DB 2 tester??). Am considering purchasing the Idle Air Control Valve ($120 Canadian) but want to be fairly certain that's the problem; otherwise, I've bought a part I may not need and still have the problem I need to fix. SUGGESTIONS....

Hi Ken, You're right, it's a pain to try to exercise those parts without specialized tools... Try disconnecting the Idle Control Valve and see what happens... Also Try looking at the PVC valve...again try to close it off and see what happens.Pull and clean the EGR valve... LEVE

Leve I disconnected the idle contro[ valve and the idle went up to 3000 Rpms When I closed off the PCV Valve the idle slowed down I also pulled and cleaned the EGR valve Its idling at 1500 Rpms Ken

Hi Ken, OK, good work... I think you've proved that the idle control valve is working. The TPS still may be the culprit... I did find this recall: 1989 Jeep Wagoneer Limited NHTSA Recall ID Number: 90V177000 Recall Date: OCT 02, 1990 Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL:CRUISE CONTROL Potential Units Affected: 165000 Summary: MALFUNCTION OF FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM THROTTLE POSTITION SENSOR COULD CAUSE INTERMITTENT HIGH ENGINE IDLE SPEED IMMEDIATELY AFTER STARTING ENGINE. Consequence: HIGH ENGINE IDLE WHEN CAR IS FIRST PLACED IN GEAR COULDRESULT IN UNEXPECTED ACCELERATION. Remedy: REPLACE THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS WITH SENSORS THAT WOULD SEND CORRECT SIGNALS TO THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM. Notes: CHRYSLER CORPORATION The TPS seems OK, but I'm wondering if you've got any adjustment on that TPS and throttle plate.... Also, have you searched for a vacuum leak? I'd do that with some Carb Spray Cleaner. With a warmed up idling engine, just spritz it lightly around the throttle body, it's gaskets, and the intake gaskets. If there's even a minute leak, the cleaner will be sucked into the intake and change the RPM.If that happens narrow down the spritz and see if you can isolate the leak. LEVE

Hi Leve Its fixed ! I put a new gasket on the thottle body and adjusted the throttle plate. I set the TBS at .08 volts. Leve I want to thankyou for all your help and I really appreciated it. Thankyou again. Ken

LEVE Note: Here's a case where Ken was chasing his tail. He actually fixed the problem by cleaning up the throttle body. But, by doing this he induced the second problem, the vacuum leak, when it was put back on the intake. The darn thing need to be sealed or it sucks in air past the throttle plate and the fuel injection system sees it as not having enough fuel. The fuel is increased and the RPM goes thorough the roof. Dumb fuel injection system! Remember to do ONE thing at a time and prove it works or does not work. The, and only then, go on to the next step. Otherwise you'll get very lost, very quickly.

Hi JeepCreep I'm a proud owner of a 2002 jeep tj sport 4.0L 6c...losing pride by the minute.The machine ran like clock work for each of it's 59017 Kms until it started clicking intermittently on idle at first, becoming a steady knock on number 6 at all rpm and temperature. Drove directly to dealer..scrached their heads for a while....after 4 hours called me back saying the the oil pump is suspected! Sounded more like a hydraulic lifter failing to pressurize properly because in the middle of that steady knocking a mild pressure on the gas pedal caused the noise to stop only to reappear after one minute of idling. I don't want to question my dealer's conclusion but...your insight would be helpful. The old 242 technology has been statistically reliable in the past! I'm surgical about the maintenance since I bought the machine new to keep for ever. Should I keep my faith on my TJ or get rid of it has soon as dealer is done with it! Will the longevity of the engine be compromised in anyway? I'm resolved to drive around in my wife's civic for the time that the dealer does its thing... Sorry for the approximate English of this text. I'm French speaking using the minimum English I've been provided with in high school 22 years ago! Francois, Help!

Hi François, The shop's answer seems plausible. One way to find out if the problem is in the head or the block is to remove the spark plug wire. If the problem's in the crankshaft or the rod then the noise will go away. A Rod/Crank bearing will also be a deep knock... whereas a lifter will be a more of a ticking or a clicking sound. LEVE

LEVE If oil pump is at fault is it fair to suggest that other critical parts of the engine may have suffered from oil starvation such crank shaft or worst the loss of secondary cooling and lubrication of the head? I'm trying to manage my owner guilt's....I drove the machine for 10-12 minutes to the dealer instead of turning it off and calling the towing...clicking was faint a first! In fact I'm trying with little knowledge that I have to assess the longevity of that particular engine despite that event in order to decide if I'm to keep it or not. Thank you for your time and expertise keep up the good work! François

Hi François, Let's agree that the oil pump is bad. The first place that would suffer starvation is the heads/valves/lifters. That makes sense as it's the highest place in the engine. The problem is that once a part is starved for oil it can score and the damage is done. Identification of the part that suffered starvation is a must. The valves, if starved, may not be affected too badly. These are bathed in oil.and pressure restoration should cure the problem. A careful check of the rockers and valve stems and guides would be in order. The lifters are another story. They not only must fill with oil, but rely on oil to glide over the top of the cam and the lift the push rods. If these are starved, then it's best to remove and replace all the lifters and the camshaft. It should be done as a set. Careful inspection of the push rod faces is in order to make sure once they're reinserted they don't rescore the lifters. Now back to the problem identification. Try to identify if one of all of the lifters/valves are ticking. If it's only one then it's likely not a starvation problem and the lifter may have collapsed or is suffering from blockage. If the whole valve train/lifters are noisy... then it's more likely to be a problem with oil starvation. Also, once there is oil starvation I'd expect to see the head start to heat, and the engine start to heat up. It may even overheat and the gauges should tell you of the condition. This would happen well before 15 minuets of running. But it doesn't seem that's happened. If it did, the head would warp and need repair/replacement. Prognosis for the engine, in my humble opinion, seem good. I'd be betting on a collapsed lifter from your description. Please let me know what is found. LEVE

Leve My TJ was back from the dealer's repair shop on Monday at 11:00am. First thank you for your insight and availability.The information that you provided though speculative because of the distance proved useful.Our exchange provided me with information that allowed me to ask accurate and relevant questions prompting a seemingly rehearsed public relation exercise that started by allowing me to meet with the technician who worked on my vehicle. He had to explain the reasoning behind the ''priorising'' of the oil pump over the lifters. They honestly and kindly explained that they called Chrysler Jeep Canada technical assistance hot line to find out about recently published service bulletins on the mater and what proper course of action to take. Province of Quebec consumer law also obliges the dealer to provide the client with all old parts removed from the vehicle. They politely showed me the old oil pump but asked me if they could have the unit back so they could send it for ''expertise'' since that such a failure is to them rather uncommon....hoping that the lab is not the dumpster.My inspection of the pump didn't show any gross deformity, visible breakage or metal shreds.The technician explained that the pump provided reasonable pressure but marginal flow.Explaining maybe the somewhat normal reading on the oil pressure gauge. For the moment no clicking or knocking.I can visualize a reasonable flow of oil through the oil filling hole between number 3 and 4 and I will keep any eye on it often! Again thank you Francois

LEVE Note: Did you note the in Francois Email the part about pulling the Jeep to the side of the road and having it towed? That would have been the smartest thing he could have done. However Francois isn't stupid, and he looked at his guages. By looking at the guages he noticed that the oil pressure was good and that the ticking wasn't too bad. This was his saving grace. When an oil pump bites the big one, it's often time to get a new engine. As my daughter once said (after a capliary tube broke and pumped all the engine oil onto the ground... she drove another 16 miles ): "Dad, the Bronco's making some funny noises." It was a bad day for both of us.

I have a 91 Jeep Cherokee with a heating challenge. On the freeway it cools fine, (in the 180 to 195 degree range). When I come off the freeway to the surface streets or have to slow due to traffic it starts warming up to 220 deg.+ range. I am not pulling anything, have a new 3 core radiator, rebuilt OEM water pump and thermostat. I have found that the electric fan test out fine but does not come on unless the AC or defroster is on regardless of the engine temperature. Do I have a fan temp. sensor problem? When should the electric fan come on? Mine does not come on even when the engine is shut down and is hot. Thanks, Dave

Hi David, It does seem that your fan circuit is not working. I'd pay attention to two areas... the first, of course is the fan circuit. If you suspect it's the problem, then run a relay/switch to the fan that you can turn on inside the cabin. Then when it starts to overheat, hit the switch. The relay will trip and turn on the fan. If the engine starts to cool, you know that's the problem. A relay, the switch and some wire's a pretty cheap diagnostic tool. The second is to back flush the cooling system. Also when you by a thermostat make sure it's got a little burp hole in the thermostat rim. That lets air bleed and not cause an air block in the system. Also, don't always depend on a new thermostat to be good. I've seen three of new ones bad right out of the box. Pull the thermostat an put it in a pan of water on the stove. See if it's opening/closing reliably. May I suggest you go out and download the 1993 Factory Service Manual at:http://www.cataclysm.net/xj/ It's pretty close to your 1991, and should lead you through testing the fan circuit.LEVE

Thanks for the quick response. I have essentially completed the task you suggested, I unplugged the temp. thermal switch from the circuit, the fan turned on and cooled the engine down to 190 deg with in a couple of minutes. I have been told that this particular thermal switch will go bad after a few years (its been 15)and should be replaced. Dave

LEVE Note: Wow, David's quick. He's done a great job of diagnostics and finding the problem. However, a word of caution to any of you who do this type of diagnostic, and that is to complete the repair. It is often a great temptation to leave the switch and wire in place. After all, it's easy, and you've already effected the repair.

DON'T DO IT... Complete the repair. There will come a time you forget to throw the switch, or you lend the Jeep to a friend and don't tell them abut the quick fix. It will be a sad day when you're Jeep's towed to a shop for an engine change because a switch wasn't flipped.

Hi! Our 1998 Jeep Wrangler has an instrument control problem. The guages stop functioning - oil pressure, gas,etc. - then miraculously start working again. When we hit a bump? What's the log-term solution? Thanks! Mike

  Hi Mike, You've got a loose 12 volt DC feed to the instrument cluster. I'd suggest pulling the cluster and tightening the pins in the connectors. LEVE

Leve, You were right on! Thanks. Now, want to be two for two? The driver side door opens fine from the outside, but not from the inside. Seems like a small deal - something loose. How do I get inside the door panel? (Same 1998 Wrangler) Thanks! Mike

Hi Mike, I'm glad it worked for you. I'm attaching a PDF of the TJ Door assembly. This should help. I'd suspect one of the rods has come loose or a snap has broken.LEVE

Have a 90 yj with a 4.2 and a bad engine knock. Also have a 87 cherokee with a 4.0 / auto that I bought for a donor. Was wondering if this 4.0 would be a good choice or if I should find a later 4.0 H.O. If I use a H.O. will I need a wiring harness & computer for that particular engine or could I use the wiring off of they 87 cherokee. Thanks Chad

Hi Chad, The 4.0L HO would work, however I'd be looking for a 1991 through 1995 4.0L engine as a donor. If you use the 4.0L HO, yes you'll need the computer and wiring harness as well as the emissions stuff and the exhaust. To keep it very uncomplicated you should use the donor parts specific to the engine and it's fuel/emissions management systems and install them on the YJ. LEVE LEVE Note: Remember... in for a dime - in for a dollar.

Dear JeepCreep I have a 1995 Jeep Cherokee 6cl 4speed auto with a synchro transfer case. I pulled out into traffic and there was the sound of a boom! under the car. I was able to drive the Jeep the short distance home and noted that the engine was reving quite high to move at a modest speed with that sound of grinding coming from under the Jeep. On a hill the revs increased and the throttle needed to continualy depressed as speed was lost though a mechanical slipping feeling from the vehicle. On further testing of the car I found that the slipping on the hill occurs in both 2WD and 4WD with the speedometer not increasing as the revs do. I thought that the transmission was the problem; however on closer inspection I found that all three bolts that attach the passanger side engine mount bracket are broken (Heads snaped off of them). This is what I think may of happened: as I pulled out from the curb the engine, tran, and transfer case may have moved to the rear of the Jeep half an inch or so, the lever for the transfer case moved out of position and put the transfer case into part time 4WD under load (although no 4WD shift light was noted). What do you think the problem is? Should I look for a new transfer case? Thanks for your help! Brian

Hi Brian, It's too soon to tell what the problem may be... Have you repaired the motor mount? Have you tired out the Jeep after the fix? If so, what happened? I'm betting on the transfer case... viscous coupler going bad. LEVE LEVE Note: Just as our friend François found, if you hear a loud boom, crack, clunk, or noise... PULL OFF THE ROAD! Your Jeep is trying to tell you it's in pain. Sometimes it's not a very important noise and sometimes it is a very important noise. But one rule of thumb is that the not so important noises become very important noises after a few more miles are driven. Bad noises and miles, they seem to have an inverse relationship

Would you please recommend a shop (preferably in Utah) to install a high quality cam kit. I understand such a kit can add about 100 hp to a 4.0. Are there any drawbacks? Do you have a search engine for your archives? Thanks

Hi, 100 HP? Wow, at what RPM, and in what range of the power band? I smell horse feathers being tossed! That cam may very well give 100 HP but not across the power band, and likely not where you need it. Do a little more research. I wouldn't throw in a modified cam in a 4.0L engine... you'll then have to start to fool with the timing, the fuel injection and wiring. That's going to get real expensive, real quick. IMHO, the stock cam is almost the perfect cam of the 4.0L engine.LEVE

Leve- Thanks for getting back to me and for the feedback. My source was one of the TV programs (OffRoadTV) I think. They show the major steps and pitfalls to avoid. Seemed too good to be true. My only significant complaint regarding my 4.0 is that it's slightly underpowered. If I could get 25% more HP across the power band I'd be delighted. Any suggestions? Sam

Hi Sam, No suggestions... most of the power boot products don't give a very good pay back ration of dollars per HP. Also, these products aren't usually tuned to a broad RPM band. What you've likely heard is something that's tuned for max at a specific RPM... that makes it legal to advertise. IMHO... most of it's bragging rights and name dropping rites for the owners of such products. PT Barnum was right. LEVE LEVE Note: Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it's not true.

I have a 1979 cj7 with what I believe to be a 304 engine. The problem is that when I start the jeep I can go about 8-10 miles then it will stall out like there is no fuel. I try to start it but even when revving the motor it will still die out like it's starved. Eventually it will start running again and will give me no problems till I let it cool down, then it's the same dance all over again. In a fit of desparation I have replaced the coil, distributer cap (that was a story itself because it wasn't what the folks at the parts store said it was supposed to be, it was a crystolite distributer), fuel filter. what's next to try? The accelerator pump diaphragm? Please e-mail me back with your suggestions. I need this vehicle to get to work and it's currently dead till I get this figured out. If I had $600.00 I'd go to a garage but I don't. Please help me. Terrance

Hi Terrance, A 1979 Daily Driver? Wow, that's cool!If the RPM drops like a rock to zero and engine doesn't cough sputter and die... the problem's likely electrical. If the engine coughs, sputters and dies, then the problem's likely a problem with fuel delivery. So, with that in mind... which is it? If it's fuel delivery, then I'd look at the carb, and rebuild it. That's about a $30 kit. If it's electrical, then the first thing I'd do is replace the ignition module and go from there. You can always use a spare. From you description, of it cooling down... leads me to think this is the problem. But I could be leading you down the garden path. Then it could be a bit of both... so more information is better. Remember when you a looking at the problem, find out what's missing,

• fuel,
• air,
• spark...

and narrow it down from there. LEVE

Dude, So far I've replaced the coil, distributer cap, ignition module, & fuel pump. It still stalls as soon as it reaches normal operating temperature. Is this a carburetor problem? I think it has a motorcraft 2100. It says motorcraft but gives no series numbers. what do you think?

Hi Terry, I'm still leaning toward a bad ignition module, but about the only thing you haven't replaced is the pickup in the distributor. When it stalls does it have spark but no fuel or fuel and no spark? If it's sputtering and choking then I'd be looking at the fuel delivery. Here's a good article on the MC2100:

HERE

LEVE LEVE Note: DUDE? Humm, according to the 1913 Webster Dictionary a dude is:

Dude (?), n. A kind of dandy; especially, one characterized by an ultrafashionable style of dress and other affectations. [Recent] The social dude who affects English dress and English drawl.

I ain't no flippin' Dude!

Hey Jeep Creep. I have some questions about my drive train. I have a '92 YJ with the 4.0L HO 6 cylinder motor and stock gears, which I believe to be 3.73. I have a 3.5" BDS Suspension lift and 33" tires. I am considering a swap to 4.10 gears in the near future. Do you think that this would be a good decision? I do a decent amount of driving on the interstate. I have some experience with suspension work, where could I find a guide or something to help with swapping out gears? I enjoy reading your responses to letters, Thanks for your time. Brandon

Hi Brandon, It's not only a decent decision.. It's a must if you do a lot of highway driving to restore the power band and the fuel economy. DIY gear swapping isn't hard, but it is time consuming and there is a pucker factor. If you don't do it right, you murder the new gears in a matter of a few hundred miles. So, you've got one chance to do it right or little bunny foo-foo gets whomped on the head by the good gearing fairy. The problem is setting the gearing backlash/preloads and doing it right the first time. With some patience and shims, it's not a problem. Without the patience and understanding of preloads and gear mesh you'll be lost. JP Magazine had a decent write up on what you'd face, it's at:http://www.jpmagazine.com/howto/68221/ Read it over and let me know what you think about completing this project.LEVE

Thanks for the response about the rebuild. I'm sure that I would save a good but of money by doing this myself. One thing is getting the tools needed. Through friends and Autozone (they loan tools out) I should be able to get them. But, just a good set of instructions is what I will need most. Would the install kit come with good instructions? I was going to buy the Superior Gear Overhaul kit for both my front Dana 30 and rear Dana 35. Thanks for your help, I just need to make sure I have good step by step instructions to help me in my up in coming project. I'll be in contact if I need further assistance. Thanks again. -Brandon

Hi Brandon, The tools aren't all that expensive, the Dial gauge and stand are about $19 ( on sale now... ) at Harbor Freight, and then there's the torque wrenches. Torque wrenches are not expensive. I bought clicky style several years ago ( 1/2" $19, 3/8" $19, 1/4" $25) and they've worked well for several years. A pipe to slide over the handles really helps.. But that was free. I picked it up on the side of the road one day laying in ditch.Randy's Ring and Pinion ( http://www.ring-pinion.com/ ) has good gearing, and step by step instructions, as well as some of the best after-service you can ever get. They'd be my vendor of choice. Whoever you buy from should have instructions included with the parts... that's a must. These are specific to the parts, and each vendor will be a little different. Let me know how it goes... LEVE LEVE Note: I rarely answer questions on lifts... as I HATE lifts. But this question was on R&P changes... so I let it slide by.

Dear Jeep Creep, First a little back ground, I have a 2000 WJ with the 4.7L and Select-Trac with 75k miles. It is on it's second transmission and acting up again. Dealership says they can't find a problem. Shifting is getting to be getting sloppy and it seems to "fall out" of overdrive on the highway, usually around 55-65mph. Not really a slip but more of a partial shift, the rpms jump 300-600 revs and it lurches back into OD. Happens whether I am driving or cruise control is handling the throttle. Problem is the computer is not throwing any codes and I can't make it happen on demand to show the dealer. It is noticeable enough that friends in the Jeep have pointed it out and asked if the tranny was going to last long enough to get us home from the bar. Could this be a throttle position sensor or torque converter going bad? Would that not throw a code? Thanks Chris

Hi Chris, I'd be looking at input/output speed sensors. These sensors tell the computer what the speed of the clutches are at, and send orders to the transmission to up/down shift. It may be a case of garbage in... garbage out.. hence no code.LEVE

Thank you for the quick reply! Is this something I can test on my own or is it cheap enough to just replace and see if that helps? Again, thank you very much! Chris

Hi Chris, I'd pull them and clean them off... and then replace 'em... LEVE LEVE Note: Remember the KISS principle, about keeping things simple!

Hello Jeep Creep, I am the proud (new) owner of a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4WD/4.0L. Do you know of a place that I can go to find out how my rig came out of the factory. In simple terms, Is there a website I can go to find out the stock gear ratio, if the diff. has the "no spin" option or is the standard diff; what type of tranny, etc. know I have an 8.25 Chrysler rear-end. I plan on putting a 3" susp. lift with 31X10.5's. I just got back from Iraq and want to put some TLC into her. Also what do you think of the K&N intake with an Air aid throttle body spacer? Is this worth all the hype? and finally Quadratec's slotted rotors or not?? Your advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jason in Camp Lejeune NC

Hey Jason, Congratulations on being a Jeep owner!More congratulations on being a Marine! Thanks for your service to the ol' USA! Go to any dealer with your VIN number and you should be able to get a build list of what came from the factory. As for the K&N and Spacer.. yes they do help... but the operative word here is help. They ain't going to give you neck-snappin', feel it the seat of your parts power. The HP to dollar ratio is pretty high on these types of mods. Just remember, that there is no cheap lift! To do it right it's going to cost lots of money.... a sad fact for larger tires. LEVE

Hello Leve, This is Jason from Camp Lejeune NC I have developed a problem with my 92 Cherokee Laredo, I6, 4WD. I installed a new water pump, and a harmonic balancer (which gave me trouble). The actual problem is my auxiliary fan turns on as soon as I start the vehicle, I know it's not at the proper temperature. When I start the vehicle a few seconds later I hear an audible click from the engine compartment and then the fan turns on. The fan runs for appx 5-10 seconds later and then shuts off. Appx. a minute later it does the same thing. This repeats the entire time the engine is running. I have tried to research the problem but I am unable to pinpoint the problem. If you have any insight please let me know. Thanks again Some relevant specs: It seems that my rig has been modified. It has an actual radiator with a fill port, just like the V-6 and 4cyl models. There is no longer the traditional overflow bottle in the upper left hand corner of the engine compartment. (I hope this is helpful). Prior to changing the water pump the problem did not exist. Jason

Hi Jason, I'm guessing here that you've disconnected/dislodged a wire that goes to the thermostats while your were working on the pump. May I suggest you go here:http://www.cataclysm.net/xj/ Download the Factory service manual for the 1993. It's 15 megs. It will be close to your 1992 XJ. Then pay attention to Section G and Section L that will guide you through the tests of the Cooling fan. LEVE LEVE Note: A Factory Service Manual ( or a close one to your Jeep ) is a MUST if you do your own work. Just a hint... look on EBAY. Often you can pick them up on the cheap on CD's. That's my refrence of choice.