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The birds. The bees. The blooming wildflowers in some far off valley beyond. It's an 18 mile drive by Jeep just to get over the mountain pass to put you there. And when you're there, you're there.

THE CLEANING CREW: Since last month, we made the move from Vegas back to sunny Southern California. Although we didn't get a chance to remove the hard top to officially roll California style, we did clean up the carb. Now she's running like she should. We shined up the rust, registered her and took her straight to where the roads are made of earth. Once again, life is good.

And for those of you who drive a Jeep: You know exactly what I'm getting at. Spring is in full swing.

And work? Nah! What better time of year to get a boot in your backside? I mean, if it's going to happen, this is as good a time as any to put you out on the streets and behind the wheel of your Jeep. Keep on Jeeping, baby!

Yours truly got a boot in the backside from his main gig here at Off-Road.com. Yep, downsized. No more am I the managing editor. I ain't even the editor. Just call me the Jeep Creep.

Am I leaving for good? Right now, I'm seriously doubting it. I've got bigger and better plans that I'm working on. In fact, come to think about it, I'm thinking I might just stick around to take full control behind the biggest wheel of the entire site. You've guessed it. We're talking the Jeep section.

I'm dropping this thing into 4-low and letting the good times go. So, as I was saying earlier, what better season is among us to jump in the Jeep and explore the great outdoors?

The Jeeps are tanked up in the driveway with fuel, food and plenty of drink. The spring sun is shining bright above the horizon, and I've got nothing better to do than to drive that Jeep like she was meant to be driven. In the dirt. On the rocks. Locked down in low. And easy on the throttle.

Until next month...

The Jeep Creep!

HIGH NOON SUNDAY: Super Perro claimed his spot over the ice chest as the cleaning crew was hard at work. By noon, we were high up in the Los Padres National Forest for a Sunday drive behind the wheel of our old CJ.

Dear JeepCreep,
I'm enjoying your writing and sensible responses. Hope you can advise me, also.
First, I'm a loyal Jeep fan. I drive a '88 Cherokee Laredo 4 x 4 with 4.0L and 187K on the original engine and tranny. I still love to drive it. My 3 sons have each chosen Jeeps: The oldest 4-wheels regularly out of Denver in his classic CJ7 (ground-up restoration and many mods) and my younger boys, ages 18 and 16 have a '97 Cherokee and '97 TJ, respectively. We've added mild lifts, nice home-made bumpers with receivers for winch mounts front and rear and other usual cool stuff. But this "old dad" is ready to replace his old Cherokee before it dies and think I'd like a Grand (so mom will have a bit more luxury.yea, right!). I'd like your opinion about some options in the Grand category (I'd prefer a '99 or 2000 unless there are serious off-road objections to those:

1) Is the Quadra Drive system working out well for moderate off-roading? (Not real wimpy stuff but no rock-crawler competitions, either). If it's a reasonably solid choice and you think the kinks are mostly worked out, can one be lifted to clear 33's without messing up the Quadra Drive?

2) If not, could I go with the 4.7 V8 and Quadra-track II and still be able to add an Arb or other selectable locker? (The Quadra-track II is the only other 4 wheel system I've seen in the '99 or later Grands with the V8). Also, would that allow me to change gear ratios to perhaps a 4.10 or 4.33 with a locker? I could be real happy with that combo if it would work out reliably.

3) Do you think the 4.0 L six with Select Track is a better way to go? I think I'd enjoy the power of the V8 but I'm not ready to have the dang thing breaking all the time for the exchange. I'd still go with a 6 if reliability were a major issue with the other 4 x 4 systems.

Thanks for any help you can offer. Keep up your great "column."
Roy in Tallahassee

Sounds like you've got yourself a great family and an excellent selection of Jeeps for that annual family reunion. I'd be proud.

Now in my experience, when it comes to mama, you've got to keep her happy. And there's no better way than to fix her up with a luxury orientated Grand Cherokee.

Of course, you don't want her worrying about getting stuck in the muck. So, you've got to take the time and fix up mama's ride right, and when it comes to lockers, ARBs are the way to go. Pushing your luck with a full-blown locker is like pushing your way directly into the dog house during a winter downpour.

You want to keep her ride really tame. Along with the tame but tough ARBs, you don't want her to experience any nosebleed style suspensions. You want to take a more sensible approach. I'd suggest a three- to four-inch system from Skyjacker or Tomken Machine. Remember, you want her to have the ability to easily get in and out of the luxurious Jeep while in a stylish sun dress or in some slick business attire while on her way to work. On the same token, though, you also want to give her the leverage and capability to steer that Jeep directly into adventure with ease.

Back that suspension up with a set of BFGoodrich All-Terrain KOs. I recommend 31x10.50, but as I can see, you're looking to push your luck with a set of 33s, which may require a little larger lift and possibly a set of rims, if you - I mean she - doesn't want any rubbing.

But hey, it's your call. You know your little lady. I don't.

Either way, the BFG All-Terrain is a solid choice in tires. You'll easily get 50,000 reliable miles out of the tire. The tire wears well, is quiet, reliable and renders superb traction. As for gearing, if your plans are to go with 31s and your stock gearing is somewhere in the range of a 3.73, the stock gears will be fine for you. Even if I was a billionaire, I'd stick with stock. But if you are going to go with a set of 33s, an upgrade to a set of 4.10s is a wise choice.

In fact, come to think about it, you will want to think this through a bit deeper. Keep in mind that an ARB unit for a set of 3.73s can often times be entirely different from a set of 4.10s or 4.56s. Since I just moved and don't have my ARB catalog handy, I can't tell you for sure, but you'll want to seriously investigate and consider that when deciding if you'll go with the 31s now and upgrade to the taller tires and numerically higher gears later.

Anyhow, let's get down to choosing a vehicle. Like you, the the throttle of a V8 is an All-American dream to be desired by any man worth his weight in vigor. It's a tough temptation to shake. I drove a couple Mustangs within the last month or so and can't get my mind off of the idea of that old 289, the 302 or the new 4.6L.

With that said, I'm liking the option behind door number two. I'm not very familiar with the 4.7L motor offered in the newer Jeeps but certainly haven't heard anything bad about it, yet. I have driven it, though, and was impressed with the power. It'll send you back into your seat with horns on your head and a smile stretched 1/4 mile. Light'em up! It's not like the old 360 or 318, but I do have a sneaking suspicion that it is a more efficient power plant. The one I drove seemed to get better gas mileage than the ones I've driven in the past. Besides, I've known a number of people who have had serious electrical problems with the newer 360s and 318s. I am under the impression these are quality control issues and not the overall design, since there are many others that run clean as whistles. Nevertheless, I'd steer clear of those models and would consider a '99 and later Grand Cherokee with a V8, so long as the deal was for the right price.

I'm going to change up on you again. In my book of books, I have always believed that simple is most certainly better, and you can't beat the proven performance and reliability of the 4.0L and its associated drivetrain. Ohhhh, the sweet little six. She's straight, smooth and in it for the long haul. Now, this is just my opinion, but if a Select Track unit and a Quadra Track unit were in an arm wrestling match, the Select Tract would send the QT's backhand crashing into the table. Also keep in mind that a full-time four-wheel-drive generally gets worse fuel economy and generates more wear and tear on its components than a selectable four-wheel-drive system.

Personally, I'd go with what I know and lean more towards the 4.0L. Mama may never know the difference. Heck, a bigger motor may even scare her. Additionally, you'll likely save yourself some bucks on the purchase price of a six, something she doesn't have to know -- if you know what I mean. Toss that extra change toward upgrades for the Jeep. Also with the six, you'll likely save yourself some money on fuel economy and maintenance costs. And what's better, you know the mighty 4.0L better than any of the V8s. And finally, there will never be a shortage of spare parts when 'wheeling with your family. You will have three other rigs with the same power plant and drive train in them. That's security that you just can't beat.

I need a roll bar for a 91 jeep cherokee [4 door]any information would be greatly appriated thank you
Daniel Wahburn

Daniel, I've been in the hunt for something that is relatively bolt-in myself. I remember coming across a bolt-in unit on the Jeep Speed site. Since you've asked, I checked back with their site to remember who it was that offered such a product.

My friends at T&J Performance Center have exactly what we're looking for. Though they have a bolt-in kit that is looking pretty sweet, I'd have to say that their custom cage has got me wanting to fork over them five-hundred dollar bills I have stashed beneath the tool box in the garage.

Anyhow, check out their site or contact them with the info provided below. I also included them in the "Links" section. I've been running into those guys going on a good 10 years or so. I got a good shot of one of their old J-10 full-size pickup they used at a chase truck. I caught up with that thing at Soggy Dry Lake in Lucerne one winter at one of the last La Rana races. They also had another pickup they raced. Now, they're out in the desert racing Cherokees.

It'd be worth catching up with those guys and do a little write-up on that old rig. I'll be covering a few Jeep Speed races for other publications in the future, but I may even have to dig some shots out of the old La Rana archives. I'll keep you posted.

Name: T and J Performance
Website: http://www.tandjperformance.com/
Email: contact@tandjperformance.com
Location: 1002 W. Collins Avenue, Orange, CA 92867
Phone: 714.633.0991
Fax: 714.633.4912

Hi JeepCreep,
I really love old jeeps, and I'm interested in purchasing a CJ7, most likely from the mid-70s to mid-80s that has been sitting in the same spot for 20 years or so. It would be very unlikely that I would pay any more than $500 for it because it looks to be in pretty bad shape (i.e. 2 or 3 wheels, scrapes everywhere, and quite bit of rust). I would just like to build it up and have fun with it. I was just wondering what would be the main things that i would need to fix/add/modify in order to get it running well
and drivable. I value your opinion very highly and thank you for you time

Tom

Tom, stick to your guns. This sounds like a major wheeling and dealing project. If done right, you could have lots of fun for only a few bucks. Your plight is most certainly noble.

As they say, "Old Jeeps never die. They just get rebuilt." And by the way, don't quote me on that. Some old fart came up with that one long before I was crawling around in my Underoos and soiling a cloth diaper.

Keep the spirit alive. Bargain with the guy. Who knows, he may even pay you to take it away. I was 16 and without a car trailer when I was offered a 12 pack of cold cans to haul away an old Studabaker. It rolled. With a little work, it ran. But because the rear end was locked up, I didn't have any way of dragging it home without a trailer. Damn. It was a beautiful car and straight as can be.

Anyway, there are several routes you can take, but since you're sounding like it's a challenge to build a kick as Jeep, while keeping as cheap as possible, here's what I recommend. Be patient.

Shake out all the cob webs. Clean it up. Remove any junk that may have attached itself to the Jeep throughout the years beneath the big oak tree. All the while, keep a look out at garage sales, swap meets, flea markets and the classified ad section.

I'd want to get this Jeep out on the road and have something to show for. Doing nothing but wrench on a rig only goes so far in my book. You've got to be able to drive it every once in a while.

With that said, I'd begin by tracking down some cheap tires and rims. I'd begin at a used tire shop. The cheaper the better. Used BFGoodrich 31x10.50 All-Terrains are first on my list, but I would be willing to settle for a lesser tire if the price was right and the hunt for BFGs wasn't putting my Jeep in drive mode. Depending on how long you're willing to wait and how cheap your willing to go, I'd either go with a mismatched set of steel wheels or a solid set of aluminum alloys. Steer clear of two-piece wheels if you can avoid the temptation. But no doubt, get yourself at least one spare. Consider two spares if your tires aren't up to snuff.

Which reminds me, I was up in the Yellow Jacket trail in the Los Padres National Forest one day. It's now the perfect time of year for this place, and I'm about ready to head back. Anyhow, this poor chump, as he was known by his older brother and friends, was lucky enough to get his old jalopy running well enough to take it on the trail. Every man had his own rig. There were about six of them total. This guy's stood out as an eye sore, of which it was named, Eye Sore.

The little woman and I were in the XJ, chugging along with the nephews in the back seat, when up around the bend we see a train of rigs pulled off on the side of the road and one eye sore of a rig blocking traffic.

So, being the bullsitter that I am, I crawl out of the Jeep and hike up the hill to survey the scene. The Eye Sore had just got a flat. No big deal, right? Right. So, he mounts a spare. After jacking it down, and getting the Eye Sore to fire back up, his brother segues into a story of how some 30 years ago, the two of them got a fist fight over the rules in marble shooting match beneath grandma's weeping willow. Just before the climax of the story, when older brother was about ready to spank him with a pitch fork, a horrendous explosion erupted from the Eye Sore. The right rear tire, the one he had just mounted, was hissing out its last breath of air. It was flat.

Being that no one in the crew, including myself, had a funky ass bolt pattern, and the tire that had just blown was finished, we proceeded to break the bead to the original flat and duct tape a patch into it. After about an hour and emptying ice chests, we got it back together, fired up the bead, got it to hold 10 PSI of air and mounted it to the rig.

This time, one of the friends, who was chewing on his chompers (dentures) and spitting some slap jaw (talking up a slurred storm), was well into a story about how he was heavy into a fist fight with the younger brother in high school. It was over some hot-looking sweet sixteen. At just about the time he was working his way into the punch line, the Eye Sore fired up and was on its way to the side of the trail to finally let me by. Just as the friend was getting ready to toss a tire iron at the younger brother's shins over this sweet sixteen, and the Eye Sore was halfway off the trail, the driver's side front crept over its last twig. The tire let out a gapping hiss and the day was done. Over. We all laughed at his expense, grabbed another cold one and continued on where their friend left off, the tire iron.

I guess that's just a long way to say that you should always pack enough spares for the kind of equipment you're running.

Back to the ultra cheap Jeep:

If the engine is not seized, you're in good shape. Change all the belts, hoses, spark plugs and plug wires. You will probably have to do some work on the old carburator and dump the old gas.

For myself, I would work on locating a cheap set of axles to eventually swap into the old Jeep. I suggest a Dana 44 for the front and a Dana 60 for the rear. The front could cost you anywhere from $100 to $500. Anything more for a stock front axle and I begin to consider it too pricey. For the rear, don't pay too much more than $150 for a stock axle, even if it has a limited slip or locker on it. Though, I would be willing to pay a bit more for disc brakes. Either way, you usually want to stay away from most off-road sharks. They know what you want and why you want it, and will mark it up accordingly. As a matter of good business, don't let anyone know that you're putting it into an off-road vehicle. If they're sharks, they'll stick it to you.

For example, my brother-in-law and I were in the hunt for a Dana 60 for his '69 Bronco. Calling around to some of the junk yards, he called, telling them exactly what he was using it for. The prices he was quoted generally ranged from $300 to $500 for the average Dana 60. I called around shortly after with the same request, not telling them anything. If they asked though, I would tell them it was for an old junker car. I was quoted in between $100 and $150. Keep that in mind.

By the way, full width axles would be best, in my opinion, and I would make it cheap and easy, using the old springs, if I could get away with it, and go spring over axle. With that, you'll have cheap height and a decent ride. If you go this route, keep you eyes out for a the front axle off a Chevy Blazer or pick up from the early 80s and 70s. They are among some of the vehicles that have the high-clearance steering. Anyhow, with that kind of height from the spring over, you ought to be able to fit 35s without a problem. I'd even consider 37s, considering that this wouldn't necessarily be your main mode of transportation.

For the motor and tranny, I'd stick with a Jeep 4.0L and the mated t-case and auto tranny, but that's just me. I like to keep it simple, reliable and easy to find parts for. You many want to drop a Chevy or Ford drive train into the thing. Keep your eye out for whatever comes around, and stay away from the sharks.

Mr. Jeep Creep,

My daughter has a 1993 Grand Jeep Cherokee. She is experiencing a problem while turning after she has driven it about 20 minutes. It seems to shudder when trying to turn left or right. She had it looked at by a shop and the are guessing it might be the transfer case. ??? Ever run across this before?

Dan

It sounds like this one needs some hands on diagnosis. Although a simplistic and unlikely culprit, the problem could be with the power steering pump itself. It could be a weakening unit. You may even be cranking the steering wheel over too hard to where it is causing the shuddering. Being that it takes 20 minutes to warm and finally create the problem, I'd even consider there being an air pocket and lack of fluid in the power steering system.

I'd also guess that there was faulty wiring, a faulty sensor or a vacuum line that was being effected by the car either warming up to a point where it is then called upon and not functioning properly. Then, since under this circumstance power delivery from the motor isn't optimal, the vehicle shudders when too much force is applied to the steering wheel.

You may also have a problem with faulty wire that is shorted when turning, but after you poked around beneath the hood for a while and have personally gone through the entire system, I'd have it looked at by another shop. Do some investigating. Find someone you can trust.

I could be wrong, but I'm thinking that your problem has nothing to do with the transfer case.

Top of the morning to you Mr. Jeep Creep! I have a '97 Wrangler sport
with the 4 liter. Sometimes, for no apparent reason, the oil pressure
will become eratic. Could an oil sending unit be at fault? Thanks!

It could be, but I'm guessing your problem is with the electrical connection. If my memory serves me correctly, I had the same problem with my '91 Wrangler (the Yuppie Jeep with the square headlights). The wire at the oil sending unit was damaged. You can find the sending unit just behind the oil filter. You'll see a single wire coming out of the engine. Trace that back to the gauge, keeping an eye out for faults in it. It's likely though that the problem will be with the wire there at the sending unit itself. You may have to replace the sending unit or just a portion of the wire that may be damaged.

Hi JC

We appreciate your column; and now could use your advice...

I've been having trouble starting my '93 Jeep Cherokee Country Sport for a few months. For a while it wouldn't start in park unless I shook the gear shift lever. Then it would only start in neutral. Now it just won't start, but the radio still comes on.
We had the started out and took it to a shop which tested it to be ok.

Someone's telling me it could be a neutral safety device but there doesn't appear to be one on this Jeep? I'm stumped.

Is there anyplace online to go for diagrams?

Thanks for your time.

Larry

Larry, this sounds like a simple fix, and I think that the someone you're referring to has the answer. It's the wire or contacts with the neutral safety switch, as it is often known.

Because of the age of the vehicle, the contacts may be worn or wire may be faulty. If you don't have one already, get yourself a good shop manual for your rig. Look in the appendix for any reference to the device and its components. If it's not there, you can look at the transmission diagram or look at the notes within the transmission overhaul section for more information. And if you're still having trouble finding it, you can dig right into your rig and trace the wire back from the transmission to your gear shifter yourself. Somewhere between those two points is your problem.

I had an older car that had the very same symptoms you've described here. The problem ended up being with the wire as it attached to the top of the transmission. I simply cracked open the top of the transmission tunnel to find the problem waiting there for me to fix it.

I have a 1996 Grand Cher Laredo with apprx 60K on it. My check engine lite came on
recently so I took it to dealer for evaluation. For $85.00 they told me the Tech code is #1052 which means oil is leaking into cylinders from somewhere and burning causing carbon build up. The fix is, I believe, remove heads, clean out carbon, and fix source of leak. All for $450.00 less the $85. The Dealer is notoriously expensive plus I dont trust them.

Please give me your view of this. Is this a known & preventable Jeep problem? Is this a simple job that could be performed by any good mechanic at much less cost?

Your reply would be appreciated.

Bob Paxton, Houston, TX

Bob, even with the light on, I'll bet that your Jeep was running just fine when you drove it in. It sounds like these guys at the dealership are taking you for a $450 ride. If you don't trust the guys, don't take your Jeep there in the first place. They are probably crooks!

Normally at 60,000 miles or so, the check engine will turn on as a reminder to check some of the smog components. Because it's late, my memory is foggy and I lent my book of error codes out to my brother-in-law's dad, I can't get into further detail about the error code and specific component the smog Nazis want you to have routinely inspected, but if the light is still on after you got it back from them and is still running fine, try this to remove it:

Remove the negative wire from your battery. Leave it disconnected for at least a minute. Reconnect it. Start your car. Since what you did just reset the computer, the light should no longer be on.

If for some reason it still comes on and maybe you're Jeep doesn't seem to be running right, take it to a TRUSTED shop.

Oh wow! Your page is awesome! And It's great to know that you're not loaded to the gills with cash and just pushing sponsors hardware.

I've got a 95 cherokee TWO wheel drive. This sucks. I want to make a 4X4. I figure that the jeep is supposed to be 4X4 anyhow so swapping in the new axle, tranny and transfer case shouldn't be a problem. finding them in good condition is though. Do you have any suggestions? Junk yard are bare (nothing but cavilers and 82 plymoths). How involved do you think the swap would be?

Also, the 4.0 sounds like a diesel engine when it idles, leaks oil out of the head gasket and antifreeze out of the water pump. There may me another oil leak but I can't find it. The engine seems to run and drive fine as long as I keep the fluids up, but I was wondering if I should just fix the head gasket and water pump or do a pull and have the engine rebuilt. It will be at 200000 miles soon so let me know..

I would also like to give you my ex-mother-in-laws checking account to help you out with your expenses. Let me know where to send it......

As is said, "The meek shall inherit the earth." I'm counting pennies here but having a damn good time living the good life. Glad you got the hots for this page. Thanks for checking in.

Now, while it may suck having to live with a two-wheel-drive Jeep, I wouldn't be so hard on it. You'd be surprised what you can do with it, if you only gave it and your driving skills a shot.

I've got some friends of mine, who play a major roll in off-road race radio communications for BFGoodrich Tires. Adept and fully credentialed for what they do, they must traverse some seriously intense terrain, climbing high upon the mountain tops to get the best vantage point for superior radio communications during such off-road races as the Baja 1000. Some of the stories they've shared, others that I've witnessed and even more that I've heard are pretty impressive as to what they get that old Jeep Cherokee to do. And like yours, it is stricken with two-wheel-drive and has logged several hundred thousand miles on the odometer. They key is in driving skills, a locking differential and the BFGoodrich All-Terrains.

Now before you go and get yourself into more work than it's worth, take my advice into consideration. Junk the idea. If you want a 4x4 bad enough, go out an buy a Jeep Cherokee that has what you're looking for. They're a dime a dozen. You'll save yourself the headache of tracking down info, parts and time to perform the swap. Even better, you'll save yourself some serious loot.

But what does that matter, when you're working off your ex-mother-in-law's bank account? And thanks for the offer on getting me in on the deal, but no thanks.

Now, should you fix the head gasket and water pump or simply perform an overhaul? Well, if you're going to keep it, which I would, I'd say get a better sound system and a better selection of CDs that will help you drown out the diesel sound of the 4.0L. Also, fix the water pump and save the overhaul for later down the line, when the Jeep up and dies on you. The water pump is a cheap and easy fix, and since summer is coming around, the problem will only get worse and eventually leave you stranded and thumbing a ride. Your ultimate aim should be to keep the thing running reliably, which in your case it seems to be doing.

In the meantime, begin the prep work for an overhaul later on down the line. Begin saving some money for when that time comes. Also begin buying all the new parts you'll want to install with rebuilt motor. Remember, buy only the best. You may want to keep this Jeep as a reliable daily driver for the commute to work, keeping the four-wheel-drive Jeep for the weekend adventures.

Now if you don't plan on keeping the 2WD Jeep, sell it now before it costs you the big bucks of an overhaul.

Dear jeep creep, I have a 66 CJ5 with a dana 27 in the front, and would like to know what would be the easiest swap would be, the AMC 20 or the DANA 30 and what year to get it out of.

Don't bother with either of the options you've listed. If you're going to wrench some sweat and green into the old CJ, wrench some more stout hardware than what you've stated above. To do otherwise would be wasting your time. I'd say a Dana 44 at each end would do fine, but wouldn't look the other way on a Dana 60 or a Ford 9" somewhere in the mix.

i have a 1994 jeep wrangler with a 2.5 liter engine. bought it for a good price. engine has 86000 miles on it. can't get the engine to stop smoking, light blue smoke. jeep creep, talk to me, should i get another engine or what.

Wow. That sounds awfully early to be giving up the ghost. Those little motors are near bulletproof. It must have been abused and not well taken care of. Either way, I say run it until it dies, and be proud that you bought your way into the perfect project.

In the meantime, consider making the preparations for an upgrade to a 4.0L Jeep motor. You can find everything you need at a local junkyard for dirt cheap and the swap isn't all that difficult. Gut the donor vehicle of all its relative electrical and driveline components and be done with it.

I Own 1978 jeep cherokee cheif w/401 and th400.I am having problems putting an edelbrock carburator on the intake.The intake is stock .The carb will not match up to the intake ?Is there a spacer that will allow the carb to be mounted the intake? The original carb was not in working order.Thanks for any info.

TRAADM41

Easy. Go to your local speed shop. Often times a well stocked Kragen or Napa will also work for you. For my beat up old CJ, I was surprised to find the adapter I needed at the local Kragen. The bottom line, you want to find a Carburator adapter that will suit your specs. Not knowing which Edelbrock you've got, I can't go into further detail, but your local parts shop should be able to help.

Hi Jeep Creep...
Thanks for taking my question. Love your site.
I'm on what must be my 6th or 7th Wrangler (this is a 2003) and
my third front windshield replacement i over the last two years.
(Read: highway stone chips that mutate into agonizing cracks.) While
I can continue to replace the windows at the local glass shop,
courtesy of the usual deductable-waiving policies, I'm sure my
insurance rates will soon reflect these pricey replacements.
Here's the query: A) Do Wrangler owners lose windows faster
than the rest of the population due to the near vertical position?
B) Do those style-spoiling "stone/bug deflectors" do any good?
(eg. any research to suggest I should by one just for piece of mind?)

Thanks again for any thoughts on this. Keep up the great work!
Matt in Michigan

Good question, Matt. I'm thinking you may be right about Jeeps being prone to windshield damage, and I'm thinking it's because of the windshield's near vertical position.

As for those funky bug deflectors, I toss those into the same trash pile of accessories that can be found at your local auto parts store junk drawer. One group of items that quickly comes to mind are the assortment of Pep Boy flame decals, which are rumored to make your Jeep an additional 20 miles per hour faster than your Jeep really is.

A while back, we ran into a great solution for our Jeep windshield problems when we hooked up with Percy's High Performance, Inc.. I recommend you consider purchasing a windshield from these guys and solve your windshield problem once and for all. Check out the review.

ORC REVIEW: Percy's High Performance - Speed Glass Racing Windshields
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/reviews/percys/

Percy's High Performance, Inc.
Industrial Park Road / P.O. Box 220
Linn Creek, MO 65052
www.percyshp.com
573-346-4409
573-346-4948
percy@advertisnet.com

how do u raise a truck and make it a off road vehicle?
Sk8ermandude

Dude, in my experience, putting air in the tires is a better way to raise it than putting air in your head. Good luck.

i own a1999 grand cherokee,when i put the air conditioner on i can only get air from the defrosters if i switch it to the feet or face it still only comes out thru the defrosters what do you think can be wrong?

There were a number of you who emailed this month with the very same problem with their Grand Cherokees. As you may know, I am not as familiar with the Grands as I am with other Jeeps.

But since this is a relatively general problem, I can offer a relatively general resolution. Personally, I've had this problem with a Dodge van, a Triumph TR6, the Jeep CJ and the Jeep Wrangler. Each time, it's been a matter of reaching back behind the dash, which may mean partially taking it apart, and replacing the cable, rerouting the cable, or fixing an associated broken part. But being that this is a newer vehicle, I am most certain that your Grand Cherokee uses vacuum motors to do its job. I suspect this is the problem. If you have the mechanical aptitude, I'd recommend taking figuring out the problem and taking care of this yourself, as it is not too difficult. If you don't have the time, the patience or mechanical aptitude, have a trusted shop complete the repairs.

Jeep Person,
I have an 89 Wrangler Jeep . It has 132,000 miles on it . Lately it has been acting kind of weird. When it is cold and just warming up the motor idles at around 1,200 rpm. Then when it is completely warmed up the motor idles up to over 2,000rpm and sometimes as high as 2,500. Then it comes back to around 1,200 . Is this a computer problem.?

Bummer, dude. You bought yourself one of the worse carburetor vehicles known to man. I say this from experience. And I say it with great disdain for the fools that allowed it to roll off the assembly line. And to add fuel to the flame, I say this with an ever greater disdain for the idiots in government who insist that the stock carburetor configuration is much more efficient and environmentally friendly than an aftermarket Holley or Edelebrock performance carburetor. And still worse, they make it illegal for you to make the safe, sane and efficient upgrade. IDIOTS!

By the way, the problem is likely with your idle stepper motor.

Now, to solve your problem the right way. Although I recommend breaking the law by making the upgrade in between draconian smog checks, such as we have here in California, there are other alternatives. You can install the electronic fuel injection upgrade direct from Chyrsler, upgrade your intake to the fuel injection from a later model in-line six cylinder Jeep, replace the entire motor with a later model fuel injection motor or continue to screw around with the junk that's currently in your Jeep. Check back with previous issue of Jeep Creep and find exactly the informative links you're looking for.

Some examples of what I want to do with the vehicle. I plan on taking it to Central America as my primary transportation. I am mostly mechanically inclined, so maitenace and repairs come fairly easy to me.

-Everyday driving/Reliable
-Good quality 4-wheel drive(for muddy & sandy coniditions.)
-low maintenance and cost

I am not sure which model is best for these types of conditions. I do not want to spend a lot of money for an initial startup. Some people have given me ball park figures of $3-5k, on older models, for complete setup.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Jon Barrett

Personally, I'd go with the Cherokee Sport (XJ). It provides space, shelter, comfort and reliability. You can pick one up fairly cheap and in good condition. Parts here in the states are easy to find, but you should concern yourself with whatever part of the globe you plan to go. Do your homework. Go prepared.

Dear Jeep Creep!

Hopefully you will be able to find an answer to this: What is the "roll-over" angle for the new '03 Jeep Rubicon? A friend and I are locked in mortal combat defending our beliefs in the better vehicle. His, the new Land Rover and I, the Rubicon.

I would also appreciate any information you have on the "approach/departure" clearence angles, and the "break-over" angle published for the Rubicon.

I thank you for your time and considerations.

Sincerely,

Bill Jenkins

Of course he's going to argue with you. He's got to justify dumping loads of dough into a lot lesser vehicle. Give the guy a break. He's got a lot to cope with and ownership of the Disco ain't going to get any easier with age. We're not talking breakover angle, we're talking practicality. And in all practicality, the guy is out of his mind.

Do you know how much an engine for one of those things costs?

A friend of a friend, who has to own every elitist item on the market, purchased a Land Rover Discovery to make a status statement to the world. Proving once again that he's got money to burn, a couple years into owning the Disco, the thing begins burning oil. What do you know. The motor needs replacing. Well, some $8,000 later, mister money bags has himself a brand new motor in his otherwise new Land Rover. Bingo! He's on the road again and impressing those not worthy of impressing - namely himself.

Here's another one for you. A good friend of mine, who is one of the best off-road photographers in the business, purchased a Land Rover Disco for his wife, knowing that after a few years of ownership, the rig would be handed down to him for a life of abuse. Being that I owned a reliable Cherokee and he owned a reliable but under powered Land Cruiser FJ80, he did his damnedest to talk her into a newer V8 powered Land Cruiser or a Cherokee. She wouldn't budge. Her heart was set on the Disco.

Now having possession of it and after several trips to Baja, here's what he learned:

1.) His wife gave it up early.

2.) On the highway, the ride is pretty good, but off-road, it just ain't got enough suspension to stake its claim on the terrain. There's not enough travel. And overall, it just doesn't handle too well. Sure, the goofy-looking tin can has considerable clearance when sizing it up against other wannabe SUVs, but the guy is kidding himself when thinking his Disco has got the Jeep beat.

3.) Finding replacement parts is an adventure.

4.) Finding aftermarket parts is an adventure.

5.) To make it worse, purchasing any part is expensive.

6.) Finding someone to work on it is even worse.

I have a 1995 jeep YJ. My question/problem is on my front right tire there seems to be a plug/cable hanging down and it not connected to anything. I am not experiencing and problems with it that I can notice and everything seems to be working fine. This cable has 2 holes in it side by side.

Any clue?

Thanks

hello, there, I am in need of a new vehicle and my dad has a cj-7 I rotting in his back yard, so I was thinking of bringing it back to life. Ideally I would like to transplant a small block Chevy v-8 with a mating tranny. Do you know if this is possible? do you know what tranny's would mate up to that? Do you know if there is a shop in or around the Boston area that has ever done anything like this?

Do you think I would be nuts and I should just go with rebuilding the stock stuff?


Brent Forman
Technical Consultant
Agilent Technologies

Do I think you're nuts? Hell no! Be proud. Dream big. It's the American way!

If instead of asking such questions, you simply settled for sitting on the saddle of an ornery old mule with an ice wagon attached to his ass end, you'd likely be living in a third world country, getting nowhere fast. Instead, you work smarter and harder to achieve greatness that we call America!

Although I don't know of a shop in the Boston area that would do such a thing, you've got the right idea and finding a shop in your area shouldn't be too difficult. Check out the bulletin boards here at Off-Road.com and ask around. Your bound to find one and get some great advice as to what tranny and t-case to bolt up to one. Another place you'll have to check in with is Advanced Adapters. They've got everything you need and the extensive knowledge to back it up.

Begin your search at the junk yard or the classified ad section of the local paper. The Chevy 5.7L fuel injected V8 is a wise choice of power plants. Go with it. Mate it to an automatic. The Turbo 400 may be a great choice, but I am no authority like the guys at Advanced Adapters are. Ask them.

The think you'll want to keep in mind is that you'll want to keep the complete package short in order to keep your driveline angles in good shape. Keep in mind, when making this swap, you'll probably end up having to upgrade your axles to sustain the punch that the V8 Chevy will pack. When you do, go with a set of full-width axles. I like the front end of a Chevy Blazer because of the Dana 44 high-knuckle steering. For the rear, any old Dana 60 should do.

As for the idea of going stock, don't bother. The Jeep is a project Jeep. Make it a good one. There's no sense in wasting your time on the weak old iron. Bring it up to date.

Sir,

I have a '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 210,000+ miles. My wife considers the gas smell in the vehicle to be overwhelming. I noticed it three or four times early on, but I don't notice it at all, anymore. I don't know if I've grown use to it or she's insane. We had it looked at once by a good independent mechanic who didn't find any reason for a gas smell. Is there any thing you know to look for that has caused this type of problem in other
GCherokees?

Patrick Ryan
Ellicott City, MD

p.s. there is a fair to middlin' chance that she is insane.

You know, it's just like the little woman to be sniffing out scents that either don't exist or don't make a darn bit of difference to the functionality of your rig.

Anyhow, let's get down to the dilemma. Going with the gut, I'd say you're packing a straight six beneath the hood of your Grand. I say this because the straight six is commonly plagued with exhaust leaks and can pack a serious punch to the old respiratory system if its bad enough. The result is similar to using the your tail pipe of your Jeep as a snorkel. If you can survive the severe headache and vomiting, you'll likely end up dead, and she'll likely end up with the insurance money.

So, without digging our way deeper into the dog house with the furious little lady, let's resolve this problem.

The culprit of the exhaust leak likely rests with the exhaust manifold. On my Cherokee and Wrangler, I usually end up with cracks in the manifold every few years. I have them welded up, which usually requires removal, or simply paste some JB Weld over the wounds, which is quicker and a whole lot cheaper. Either way, its a common occurrence.

My best suggestion to remedy this problem is to replace the aged manifold with a quality coated header. Keep in mind though, some headers are not smog legal in some states because they do not have a place to plug in the exhaust temperature sensor.

Now, on the subject of my CJ, I usually end up with a leak in the exhaust manifold gasket. This problem is not exclusive to the CJ, though. I have also experienced this problem with the Cherokee and Wrangler as well, but it doesn't seem to happen as often.

In this case, I tend to believe that the problem is usually a result of having an improper install, using poor quality parts or having a poor running Jeep.

Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket on a straight six isn't the easiest thing to do. Since when doing so, you are also working with the intake manifold, which shares many of the same bolts. Juggling these two items and their gaskets at the same time usually leads to an improper install to the lesser experienced shade tree mechanics. Understand, I speak from experience.

I once had an early '70s Dodge Dart Swinger with the mighty 318. Loved that motor. Loved that car. It had get-up-and-go and got amazingly great mileage. Anyhow, one day, for regular maintenance purposes, I installed a brand new and utterly cheap distributor cap and rotor on the old beast. I make it a habit of changing the belts, hoses, cap, rotor and plugs once a year. It's a bit much, but what the heck? I've always got plenty of good spares on board for a rainy day. Anyhow, I fired up the beast to take her for a spin around the block.

With my left arm hanging out the window, as cool as I could be, I blasted down the boulevard to warm her up, check out the scene and pick up some ice and supplies from the local liquor store. I was on the verge of a road trip that day.

On the verge of pure bliss and driving down the hottest part of town, I opened up the throttle. With a grin pegged between the ears and that proud look of royalty in my eyes, the damn thing backfired. It damn near blew out my eardrums and made me crap my pants.

Here's what happen: The cheap new rotor I installed on the distributor had a crack in it. Why? Well, even though it was new, it was cheap. And as you all know, you get what you pay for. This is one reason why I now shop for quality parts and only quality parts.

Here's the result: Because of the backfire, the exhaust manifold gasket blew partially off. The muffler grenaded, which was fine by me since I was already in the market for some a little louder and more obnoxious. And last but not least, the entire world witnessed me nearly crap my pants on the boulevard in valiant attempt at being cool in my old Dodge Dart Singer.

To recap, get yourself a high-quality aftermarket head to replace that old exhaust manifold. If you aren't willing to accept the responsibility of performing the install yourself, make sure you have someone who has the experience to get the job done right and stand behind his (or her) work.

Pat, with over 210,000 miles on your Jeep, it's about time you went ahead with an aftermarket unit anyway.

Thanks for dropping by, and we'll catch up with you and more of your questions next month. Until then, keep on Jeeping.

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