First, you must correctly identify what has happened, then take the appropriate corrective actions. An engine that begins to sputter and miss shortly after passing through a water obstacle is probably suffering from water in the distributor or electrical system. Contrary to popular belief, electrical problems are not the worst type of water problems. Most of the computers on today s rigs are located high enough (or inside the vehicle) where you would have other major problems before these components are effected. A distributor can usually be dried by removing the cap and wiping the excess water from the inside with a clean cloth. Use a can of spray silicone and spray over the outside of the cap and wires prior to encountering a water obstacle and you can decrease the chance of water problems with these components. (WARNING: Do not apply spray silicone with the engine running, while smoking, or other ignition source is available or you’ll be painting your eyebrows on for a month). If the engine stops running abruptly immediately after encountering a water obstacle, the engine probably has ingested a quantity of water through the intake system. Now is the time where most people make a critical error . . . they attempt to restart the vehicle. I have seen engines seize immediately and I have seen them run for several mile before seizing after the owner restarted it following water ingestion. So what do you do? If you are still in the water, get the truck on dry land using what ever means necessary besides turning the engine over. Open the air cleaner box/breather and look for water. Is the air filter soaked or only damp? Is water pooled inside or is it only damp? If everything is soaked, you probably have water in the engine, but either way look in the intake manifold (newer fuel injection models will have to remove the plastic tube from the air box to the throttle body, carb guys look in the carb) for water. If you see water, you have got to get it out of there. Take that spare piece of fuel line or hose you carry and snake it down in the intake as far as you can. Now, siphon it out (tastes good doesn’t it?). Dry all you can with clean rags throughout the entire intake system. If the paper filter is soaked, throw it in your garbage bag and put in your spare or run without one for awhile (should have bought a K&N anyway). Now comes the fun part. Take out all the spark plugs carefully labeling the location of the plug wires. This will eliminate engine compression and provide a way for any water that made it into the cylinders to exit harmlessly. If water was in a cylinder and you tried to restart the engine before removing the plugs, water will not compress and something (read expensive like head, block, piston, rod, gaskets) would have to give (break or stress for later breakage). Check the engine and transmission (if automatic) oil level to see if there is a noticeable increase or if it appears contaminated (milky). If either is above the safe zone, you need to drain some out in a environmentally conscious manner (catch it in something and carry it out with you). You might as well dry the distributor cap and replace it just in case some water made its way in there. Now, with all the plugs removed, disconnect the coil wire and turn the engine over as if to crank it. This action will allow the pistons to rapidly push the water out the open spark plug holes. If you are really lucky, you can get one of your not so bright buddies to stand real close to see the water come out and spray him good (might as well have some fun). Don’t worry about the water in the exhaust, unless you were in really deep the engine will push all that out and dry the system once you get it back running. With all the water out of the engine, it is time to put everything back together and get it running. Dry the plugs, or if your really good you carry spares, and put them back being careful to get the plug wires back in the same locations. Button everything down, reattach the coil wire, and check for errant tools before attempting to start the engine. If all goes well the engine will start after a couple of attempts and run rough for a few minutes while it blows the water out of the exhaust. All total, you have spent 45 minutes to an hour preventing what could have easily been a $1000 or more repair bill. Not a bad investment for taking a little time to do the right thing. While the method of combating water ingestion described in this article may not fit every case exactly, I have personally performed this procedure on my vehicles three times and have never experienced related component failures. I also highly recommended anyone who experiences water ingestion in the engine change engine oil as soon as possible following the incident. By the same token, if you encounter water obstacles as deep as 3/4 the tire height, change differential, transfer case, and transmission fluid. Ignore those who encourage you to start your motor too soon and fight the little voice that says oh it really didn’t ingest that much it will be O.K.. those voices will no doubt be absent when the bills arrive for the engine work. Follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/OffRoadDotCom
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