In all of your future Jeep Creep questions, please list your first and last names, your hometown, and your state/province/country, so that we can publish that information here. If you don’t provide this information, we may not be able to publish your question and answer. Don’t forget to be as complete as possible with the description of your Jeep and its problems, too. In addition, if there is a recall issued on a Jeep model by the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration (NHTSA), I will publish it here for your information and education. See all of the posted recalls at www.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm.
—Jim Brightly

Willys Wagon

I am in the process of acquiring a 4x4 Willys Wagon (straight six-cylinder with Rochester single-barrel carb). On a plate under the rear seat on the driver’s side I was able to find barely legible numbers as follows “54168 17903.” The hood is nearly flat (slight center ridgeline) with a chrome “wing type” accent that starts along the ridge line about 18 inches from the front of the hood and “wings” out about 12 inches along the front leading edge of the hood. Front and rear windows double with a divider and are flat. What year and model do I have, and are there any tips for complete “nearly” original restoration?
Dogbob
Guffey, CO

That Jeep is from a bit before my time, but I’d estimate it’s a 1954 model. To learn about restoring, I’d suggest Google. Search for Willys wagons, Willys Jeeps history, and Willys Jeep clubs.

No Heat Jeep

I have quick question. I’m new to Jeeps, always owned Toyotas, but just wondering why my 1990 Wrangler only has heat that blows from the defrost and floor vents. Is this normal because this barely heats my Jeep? If this isn’t normal, any ideas on how to make it blow from the dash vents?
Eric
Berea, KY

This is normal. The dash vents are for A/C. Two things you could do: If you don’t have a full carpet kit, a full carpet kit would help warm up the Jeep. The 4-Wheel Drive Hardware and 4-Wheel Parts catalogs offer a 12VDC backseat heater that mounts on the floor. This should keep your toes toasty.

4-inch TJ Lift

I have an ‘05 Wrangler Rubicon. I want to get a lift kit put on it with 33-inch tires. I’m not looking to lift it more than 4 or 4.5 inches. Just a little bit more clearance for rock crawling but not too much since it’s my everyday vehicle as well. I’ve had a ton of advice, like Old Man Emu, short arm as opposed to long arm, do it a little bit at a time, spacers, and so on. What do you recommend for my lift kit?
Sam
Las Vegas, NV

A 4-inch lift is an excellent choice, and you needn’t go any higher unless you want to get into more severe rock crawling and want to run 35-inch or 37-inch tires. Both my CJ and JK have 4-inch lifts (the CJ also has a 2-inch body lift). My CJ has a Skyjacker lift and the JK has a Rancho kit (I love the Rancho 9000RS adjustable shocks!), so almost any kit will work for you. I suggest you go online and order catalogs (or look at the products online) from 4-Wheel Hardware, 4-Wheel Parts, and/or Quadratec. Check prices, read the descriptions, etc., and make up your own mind within your budget. If you’re in a bit more of a hurry, drive over to the Henderson 4-Wheel Parts store and look at their lift kit displays. Short-arm kits are fine for most of us; long-arm kits are for those who want more extreme trails with extreme articulation.

Supercharging

I have a 2002 automatic three-speed Wrangler Sport. It is a 4.0L and I was wondering the price of this supercharger kit for it?
Clayton
St. Louis, MO

I believe you saw the supercharging article at: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=259383 However, Factor X Engineering appears to have been a victim of the economy downturn. Their phone number doesn’t go through, the Web site is no longer operational, and e-mail is returned, so I can’t give you a price.

Phantom Fuel

One morning about two weeks ago, I tried starting my Jeep. I unlocked it with my remote, turned the key and the first thing that I saw was that my fuel gauge did not respond and that the empty warning light came on. This was very strange as I had just filled it up the day before. I tried turning the ignition and the engine cranked over but did not start. Can you help me?
Tony
Cape Town, South Africa

Have you tried a squirt of starter fluid, or maybe a couple gallons of new fuel? It sounds like someone siphoned out your fuel or perhaps a low spot in your fuel line sprang a leak and everything drained out.

Fouled-up Four Banger

I have purchased an ‘89 Wrangler with the 2.5L engine. Someone changed it to a 2-barrel carb with an adapter to the TBI intake manifold. I purchased a Rochester Monojet and an ‘84 intake manifold and the Jeep runs fine, but under load it retards or something and runs like crap. The distributor wires are not connected (there are three of them). I also purchased an ‘84 distributor but they look the same as what I got. The wiring has been all chopped up. I have the isolator block and coil and tried the direct approach with the same result. Is this possibly a weak or intermittent spark? Timing is bouncing around. Is the computer somehow still connected to the motor? Does the module in the distributor now need power or a controller? Troubled in paradise; slow goes it.
Aloha, Punakev
Hilo, HI

Wow, Punakev! You have to find an early distributor and module to run the ignition or fix the OEM injection system. Why would anyone replace EFI w/a carb? Also, buy yourself a good shop manual with a thorough troubleshooting section.

Goofy Gauges

I have a 2000 Wrangler 4.0L. Recently my gauges started acting funky; voltmeter would peg over 19 volts then all the gauges would quit, also the radio would quit, then it would come back on and the voltmeter would peg again. I hooked it up to a computer and got a P0622 “Generator field not switching properly” error code. I have replaced the alternator and ignition switch. Still the same. Also even when my voltmeter says 19 volts the actual output from the alternator is correct (15.5V). Could the PCU be bad?
Joe Z
Taylor, MI

You need to verify all your ground contacts starting with the ganged dash ground. Also make sure the engine-to-frame ground strap is connected with clean contacts. You may need to buy a Jeep maintenance manual with wiring diagrams to ascertain all your ground contacts. If the grounds check out OK, verify that your control unit is operating properly. Correct voltage should be 14.5 at the battery when charging system is working properly.

Synthetic Oil

I was told not to run synthetic oil in flat-tappet engines. I should run Rotella or Joe Gibbs oil. My 4.7L stroker runs good but a little hot. And my Crane cam didn’t last 8,000 miles. Comp cam is o.k. so far. Biggest help was to remove restricted head pipe (I made a true 2.25 pipe); factory opening was 1.75 inside. Runs cooler.
Jeepindan
Doylestown, OH

Synthetic oil is fine if the cam is broken in correctly with the right additives - just follow the manufacturer’s suggestions. Running hot could be anything; you’ll have to track that down to be more specific.

Sputtering Engine

I have a 1988 YJ 6-cylinder. The problem I’m having is that it will idle good, but going down highway it will lose power and start to go dead. Sometimes putting my foot on the brake and revving the engine will keep it going, but it must be kept at a high rpm. Quit on me this past weekend, I towed it home, the wrecker left I got in and tried to start Jeep and it fired right up. This is not the first time this has happened. Last time I replaced the carb and it has been running good for almost two years. Any ideas?
Phillip
Florence, Alabama

The problem is somewhere in your fuel system. Either the tank isn’t venting properly or the pickup tube is clogged. You could also have problems with the fuel pump—becoming heated or clogged—or the filter. Start at the engine and trace the fuel line backward, checking fuel delivery at each connection. But be careful and have a container ready to collect the expended fuel! You don’t want a fire!

Super Hurricane

I have a 1955 Willys pickup with the Super Hurricane 226-cid flat-head six-cylinder engine, but mine has an intake fully split between the front and rear three cylinders and a two-barrel carburetor. Was this a special production model? It appears to be original equipment.
Tom
Jersey Shore

Tom, that setup was an OEM design for the pickup version of the engine.

As usual each month, I’m shouting out a big THANK YOU to Paul Schupp at Rock Lizard 4x4 in Kingman, Arizona, for his invaluable assistance in answering many of the Jeep Creep questions