Greasing the axle bearings on a rear Dana 44, and most other semi-floating axles, is a significant job. The wheel and brake drum must be removed to get to the nuts securing the axle retainer plate. After removing the nuts the axle can be removed with the bearing. But the bearing is still partially blocked by the seal and retainer plate on the outboard side and by the bearing retaining ring inboard. What that means in practice is that the bearing is greased prior to installation, and then ignored until it fails. To promote longer bearing life, I came up with this modification.
The plan is to install a grease nipple in the housing between the bearing and the outer seal so that grease can be pumped through the bearing. To give it a place to go, there is a relief hole next to the inner seal
This housing is from a ’74 Jeep CJ. On some setups the backing plate is formed to come inboard over the top flat of the axle flange. In that case this mod may require a different nipple or setting it deeper into the housing.
Here’s what needs to be done to the housing:
Note that the hole for the grease nipple straddles the interface between the outer seal and the bearing. There is no gap there. The seal is pressed in by the retainer plate and it in turn holds the bearing into the housing. That necessitates filing a notch in the body of the seal so that the grease can pass through. The location of the nipple hole is obviously critical. You should take careful measurements of your application and confirm where the hole needs to be.
The most common small threaded grease fitting has a ¼-28 thread and a 3/8” hex for turning it in, so it needs enough room around it for a wrench. I didn’t want to give up that much metal, so I went with a press-in fitting. It needs only a 3/16” hole. It also has a 3/8” hex, which is unneeded for a press-in fitting, so I turned the hex round which lets it fit nicely into a 3/8” counter-bore.
Here’s what the machining looks like. First make the counter-bore with a 3/8” center-cutting end mill. Run the tool down just until a flat spot is created on the tube. |
Then drill 3/16” through. Center-cutting end mills leave a slightly convex face, so it’s good to first use a spotting bit so that the 3/16” bit doesn’t wander. |
Here’s the finished grease nipple hole. |
| Then turn the housing over to drill and tap for the relief plug. First create a counter-bore with a 7/16” center-cutting end-mill and spot-drill it so that the bit won’t wander. |
Then drill the hole Q or 21/64” and tap it 1/8-27 NPT. There are nice hex-socket plugs that will turn in flush with the housing. |
Clean up the burrs inside and clean the housing thoroughly when the machining is finished. |
Put the nipple in the lathe and turn the hex down. |
Here’s the finished nipple. Notice that there’s a wafer-thin remnant of the hex. That doesn’t hurt anything; in fact it helps retain the nipple in the counter-bore. |
The finished nipple installation. |
Here the inner seal has been installed and the relief hole is showing. There’s plenty of room between the bearing and the inner seal, so the location of this hole isn’t critical. I placed it close to the seal so that most of the air in the cavity would be displaced by grease. |
The outer seals, notched and marked with a paint pen to help align the notch with the nipple hole. |
The axle parts in place. Having the brake cylinder off makes aligning the seal an easy job. |
Fresh grease coming out of the relief hole. There’s a large cavity to fill, so it takes a lot of grease. Pushing grease through the small notch in the seal isn’t easy, but it works. Be patient. |






Posted 2008-11-20 13:17:27.0

